11081932511 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

The repair, replacing the thernal fuse was easy, just one screw and then remove and replace by disconnecting and reconnecting two wires. It did take a bit of time to find which part was defective. I first removed the back panel and front panel and the drum to get at the igniter and flame window. I checked continuity of these parts as well as the gas solenoids and they all checked out ok. The thermal fuse was last on my list. It read as an open circuit. I temporarily jumpered the two wires at the fuse and checked that the igniter would now heat up. I spent over one hour removing the ductwork and giving the unit a thorough cleaning with a shop vac.

Dryer works - thanks to a new fuse. Glad I tried this before just buying a new one. Video for my model indicated the fuse was located in the back and actually it was difficult to get to in the front. So extra time was wasted trying to get to fuse in the back. Thank you for the part!

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

Unplugged dryer from electrical outlet. Removed top panel from dryer to get instructions for location of parts. Removed front panel to get to fuse and thermostat. Had to purchase small socket wrench to access nuts because of small space and angle of difficulty. Removed both parts, and replaced with new parts. Plugged dryer back in. Tested for heat. Working properly.

There were two tricky parts - one, was locating the part to repair on the dryer. One set of instructions said it was on the back of the dryer behind the panel. Once I removed that panel I realized that the thermal fuse was on the front. After I identified where the part was (bottom front), the second tricky part was getting to the screw. You just need a mini-socket set and relatively small hands. A magnetic light that can attach to the dryer while you are working is also useful. This would have been a 30-45 minute job had I known precisely where the part was that needed replacing. Otherwise, this was relatively easy.

I made sure air vent was clear and clean. I removed front panel of dryer unit, located fuse, removed wires, tested fuse with ohm meter, which was defective. Tested new fuse placed back in dryer reattached wires. Cleaned out inside of dryer, replaced front panel. Now works like new.

Removed the old screen and simply put in the new one

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Attempt to start dryer normally. Turn timer dial to high heat setting. Press the Push To Start button. Verify plug is secure in wall outlet. Got to breaker panel to verify breaker is not tripped. (Sometimes breaker may trip but visually appear no to be tripped). Reset breaker to maker sure breaker is in the on position. Attempt to start dryer normally. If dryer did not start proceed. Get a multimeter. Remove plug from wall outlet. Slide dryer from wall. Remove exhaust duct from bottom of dyer. Use multimeter to check voltage at wall outlet. Verify 120 to ground and 208 between hot legs. Remove rear cover if main dryer unit and rear of control unit. Connect the multimeter to rear of control panel rear of push button. Turn meter to ohm setting. Push the start button to see if there is continuity. Release the button to verify no continuity. Next major part of curcuit is the thermal fuse. Look on lower left area of dryer. With multimeter in Ohm mode place the leads on the light blue wires. If no continuity replace thermal fuse

I ordered the part(and a backup) and had it in two days. 5 days less than ordering from sears.

just put the new part in the door---sooo easy! THANK YOU!

Took back panel off dryer, unscrewed old part, put on new one. Easy fix. Dryer works great again.

My wife and I thought our dryer was done and we were looking at a large replacement costs. We started googling and found this site and watched the video. We are were 99% sure it was the thermal fuse. We received within 2 days and thought we would be in there for over an hour. Turned it was less than 10 minutes, we watched the video clip on how to install on our laptop as we did it.

We will always be buying parts from this site and have told a ton of friends/family to check this site out.

It saved us so much money!!!!

after removing the back panel (5 screws) i replaced the heating element, (about 15 minutes, after vacuuming all of the lint and dog hair), replaced the panel, but still no heat. removed the back panel again, and replaced the thermal fuse. (2 screws, 5 min.) still no heat, so on to the thermostats. (there are 2, both in easy reach). i replaced the one in the heating element housing first, as this made sense. (it has a red stripe across it, so they can't be confused), replaced one connector, which the new part requires, buttoned it up, and presto!! the dryer works just as new! all told, i have less than 100.00 with all of the new parts. the longest part of the whole thing was cleaning all the lint and debris out first, which you absolutely must do

took the cstch reciever out, with my fingers, pushed the new one in, snap lock fit.......couldn't be better, like repairing a model T ford.......