11080754002 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I found a video tutorial that explained the three things that are usually the problem when a dryer stops working. This showed how simple the task is. I used a multimeter to check the switch, to make certain that this was the part that needed replacement. This was part of the tutorial, as well. I ordered from PartSelect because it was recommended to me by an application that I use to find places where items are less expensive. The correct part arrived in a few days and it worked fine. I'm not a handyman by any means, but the tutorial showed exactly what needed to be done. It appeared simple and it was.

Followed the video instructions. Had no problems. The video was accurate.

Old door catch came out, new one slipped in. All works great.

My dryer started making a loud rumbling and clanking sound and I didn't know what was wrong.

First I pulled it away from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I loosened the four nut/screws across the top of the rear of the dryer with my adjustable wrench then removed them with the flathead screwdriver. Then from the front of the machine, pulled the top of the dryer towards me, freeing the top and removed it. I could see one belt towards the front of the machine that appeared to be intact. I plugged the dryer back in and ran it... It spun but continued to clank and rumble. I noticed a "groove" near the rear of the drum and didn't see a belt there so I assumed that I needed the rear belt and ordered a replacement. I WAS WRONG. It turned out that there is actually only ONE BELT on this machine, that in fact I needed replacement DRUM WHEELS.

Next, I unplugged the power cord again and then I removed all twenty some-odd screws from the rear of the machine... which was POINTLESS as it only gave me access to the heating element, so I replaced this and all the screws.

I then removed the inside top nut/screw from the front panel on both the right and left inner lip. The panel then lifted up and off of the machine...only connected at this point to the rest of the dryer by the wires.

I made a schematic of the wires and which color was connected where, and then only removed those that were necessary to detatch the front panel completely from the dryer (so I could easily replace them properly later).

I noticed at this point that the belt was still functioning (although was cracked and needed replacing soon anyways)...but that the bottom drum wheel had worn itself down on the inside (where it rests on the axle)...the rubber around the outside was still good... but the whole wheel needed replacing. The side drum wheel (same part number as bottom) appeared to be fine.

I ordered replacement DRUM WHEELS (they sell them in packages of two only).

When the wheels arrived, I got down on my hands and knees and noticed how the belt was connected to the drive spindle of the motor... by a spring levered plastic wheel... very simple. Push the spring lever towards the drive spindle of the motor...loosening the belt. Then removed the belt from the motor, relaxing the spring and the belt came off, hanging only around the drum of the dryer.

Without tension on the spring levered plastic wheel, it came off of the bottom of the dryer completely. (If your belt has broken, you most likely will find this sitting on the bottom of your dryer...I will tell you how to attach it later on in this story.).

I carefully pulled the sides of the dryer case apart and slid one side of the drum forward out of the case...then slowly slid the other side of the drum out of the case...gently lifting up and out...completely removing the drum from the machine....setting it aside.

The dryer (inside the case) was FILTHY. I got out the handheld vacuum and cleaned it all out (finding a religous medallion, an earring, and over $2.00 in change). I vacuumed the inner bottom, sides, motor, and took advantage of vacuuming the inside of the lint collector as well... cleaning it up nicely.

The bottom drum wheel was attached by a triangular plastic clip (on both sides of the wheel)...I removed the plastic clip carefully by gently prying it off with the flat edged screwdriver... being careful not to break it. There was a LOT of hair wrapped around the axle near the triangular clip and used the pliers to pull the hair off...then removed the bad wheel..then the plastic clip behind where the wheel was sitting...and the hair there as well. I cleaned off the axle thoroughly, then did the same with the other drum wheel (even though it looked fine, I replaced them both.).

I set the old side wheel aside with the old (still useable) triangular plastic clips. In the future if one of the wheels goes bad... I'll have a replacement that will get me by.

Then I slid one of the NEW triangular p

It was so easy... Pop out the old with flatblade screw driver and insert new piece... Works perfectly and looks better than the velcro strip I was using to hold the door shut...! Thanks for fast delivery and having the part available...

Regards,
JBL

easy three prong push-in,...

just like video showed really helpfull

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

Safety First - I unplugged the power source. I removed the console by simply removing several screws. However because the nut fastening the resistor was in a really tight spot and I had little room to work, I decided to remove several screws from the back of the console to open it up. (This step is not necessary - but for me, it just made the job go quicker). I was then able to use my ratchet/socket set to remove the nut from the resistor. I then attached the wires from the timer to the new in-line resistor. I closed up the console, re-attached it to the dryer and DONE!!! The dryer works fine!!! By the way, the set is 25 years old. I initially thought it was the timer itself but after explaining the problem to Rebecca at this iste , she quickly identified the problem as the timer power resistor. Many thanks Rebecca??

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

First I pulled out lint catcher, you will see two screws ,removed two the screws on top ,( philips head screw driver) I than took a putty knife and pushed in the front of the dryer under the lid and lifted the top up, I than removed a self tapping screw on each side with a 5/16 wrench and lifted the front panel out. I than pulled out the drum and this exposed the two rollers, I than pulled of the nut locks with athe pliers , took off the plastic triangle snaps and pullled off the old rollers , replaceing them with the new ones,put the triangle locks on and that the lock nuts on , I than put the drum back in, than the front panel, replaceing the two self tapping screws , snapped down the top,replaced the other two screws again on top and replaced the lint catcher, I was done.

The most difficult part of this repair was making sure I purchased the right part !!! Part Select.com has a great website with pictures of almost every part you could ever need. I was able to select the right part and from there the repair was easy.

Replaced warn springs with new ones in the kit followed the instructions that were included was quick and easy now the washer works like new

I identified the correct catch of the three that were included in the package by matching its number to that on the old catch that I had pried out of the door using a flat screwdriver. I centered the new catch over the square hole in the door and pressed it into place. Then I used some needle-nose pliers to twist and remove the metal pin that fits into the catch from the main dryer housing. I replaced that with the new piece included in the kit, gently tapping it into place with a hammer. The repair complete, the door worked perfectly. Thanks for your help and for the speedy delivery of the kit.

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.