1106718501 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I watched the part select you tube video that links specific loud dryer noises to specific broken or loose parts. It allowed me to identify the part I needed, which I ordered through their website. Two days later, I had the part and installed it, with help from another online video that showed me how to take the dryer apart to install the drum support roller. Thank you, the information provided made the repair quite easy. It works perfectly now!

I replaced the springs and cables in the dryer door.

Attributed excessive noise to age of dryer, upon closer inspection, a dish towel had become caught at rear of drum because the drum support rollers were damaged causing the drum to create a space in the rear of the drum. This was large enough for the dish towel to be caught. Originally I thought that the thermal fuse had blown the circuit-which should occur in an overheating situation-however the loose drum had worn through the electrical wire leading to the door switch because it was not properly seated on the rear drum rollers. the wire was repaired with a wire nut, rear drum rollers were installed and it is working again. thank you for the extremely fast shipping

Took of the btm pan and the top to be able to remove the front. Raised the drum enough to replace the right hand wheel. ( the old ones had already been removed) Replace the left hand wheel and bracket. Re assemble the machine. Worst part was trying to do all this with the can of beer in one hand!!

One screw held element. Removed back of dryer. Removed screw, pulled out failed element. Slid new element in. Put in and tightened screw. Replaced back. Only two problems: screw head was pointed away; replacing air duct to wall tube (always is a problem for me).

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

removed two screws from lint screen raised top removed two nut screw from front disconnected lid wire lifted front up and off removed drum cleaned all dust out replaced pulley unit with new one (with a wheel) replaced tub held it up with a bungey cord put on new belt and reassembled unit tested out back in business

The repair was easy, removed back panel from dryer, removed heating element w/ shroud, disassembled old heating element from shroud and replaced with new one. New one was a bit bigger, so tension holds it in place, but no worries, works fine now.

would have been nice to know this supplier had a warehouse in Louisville, then I wouldn't have had to eat the 2nd day air shipping I paid for. Would have been happy to pick it up at their warehouse or pay for regular shipping, would have gotten here faster.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

After checking out the website and the videos posted to YouTube, I decided that I should take a chance and try and repair the problem myself. I am not in any way mechanical, and for me personally, this was a huge job. The instructions and the video were so clear that it made the job easy. Taking out the dryer drum was a concern, and although not heavy, I used a friend to hold it in place when I was putting it back together. My only small issue was when I was removing the rollers. I had some difficulty taking off the plastic locking washers but other than that, it was a breeze. The videos posted are great and very easy to follow. While doing the above job, I also replaced the dryer belt and heating element, both of which I followed instructions as per video. The dryer is running very smooth, and is the quietest it has been for many years. Very happy with all aspects of service advice and videos.

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

Opebed lint filter door, removed old lint filter and replaced it with new one.