11067062600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

Removal of the back panel was easy - 9 screws - replaced both the thermistor and the two-terminal thermal fuse - put back panel on - supplied power - tested it - works like a champ.

After shutting off the gas supply and unplugging the electrical cord, I used a flat blade screwdriver to loosen the exhaust vent clamp and remove the vent tube from the outlet. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver I removed the screw holding the plate covering the electrical lead connection to the power supply, then I pulled the plate back and disengaged the tab from the cutout in the back of the dryer body to remove it. I then removed the eight screws holding the back cover of the dryer in place, then removed the cover. The thermal fuse is located near the bottom of the dryer at the back, just above the exhaust vent. I loosened the two screws holding it in place using the 1/4-inch nut driver, then I removed the two electrical leads from the fuse. I inserted the new thermal fuse and screwed it into place, then reinstalled the electrical leads. I then reinstalled the back cover, the power-cord cover, and the vent hose. I turned the gas supply back on and plugged the electrical cord back in.

I followed the advice and purchased a thermal fuse in advance. The advice forgot to mention a broken belt switch. Since the belt was broken I had no way of knowing how it was wrapped around the tensioner. Their diagrams are reversed from the Whirlpools. I called a local parts supplier, who turned out to be a repairman working out of his van. I met him in a restaurant parking lot and was on my way in minutes. The dryer was running within a hour. Great web site George - Pittsburgh

The catch did not just slip out. I had to take door apart and then still had a tough time getting the latch out. I had to pry it out with a screw driver. It did not just slip out the front like some people said.

Watched steve on the video on changing the thermistor a couple times, it appeared to be straight forward replacement. Unplugged the dryer. . . Went through the front, my lent filter slides in and out from the lid so I had too remove two extra screws to detach it. After opening up the front it became very apparent my thermistor was not located in the same location as the one in the video. Dryer needed a cleaning (lint/dust) so I released the idler pully tension on the drum belt and went ahead and removed the drum/belt and shop vac/ blew with compressed air and shop vac once again. Gave my dryer a much needed cleaning since I had it apart. Put everything back together in about 20 mins. Pulled the dryer away from the wall and removed rear cover and presto there it was right next to the dryer air outlet. Replaced thermistor and replaced back cover, inspected out flex hose on dryer outlet, I clean it out (flex) yearly to prevent problems. Reattached flex on both ends, re-positioned dryer, plugged back in, and works great! Definitely fixed my problem. . . Replacing the drum by myself was a bit difficult. Still do able (there's a video on that also. . )

Dryer is on a pedestal. Opened drawer and removed two 1/4 inch screws on bottom panel of dryer front. Panel drops down and exposes the dryer exhaust where thermistor is located. Removed two spade connector wires and removed two 1/4 inch screws. Installed new thermistor and reversed procedure. For the moisture sensors I used a phillps screwdriver and stuck my head in the dryer and removed the lint screen assembly (3 screws). Removed the spade wire connectors and used a straight blade screw driver to remove the moisture sensor. Installed the new sensor and re-installed the lint screen assembly in the reverse of removal. All very easy - just took 30-45 minutes total.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

Once I watched a YouTube video showing me how to do the job I ordered the part from you. Am so impressed with your fast shipping and best prices via the Internet. Thank you SO much! The water level switch was easy to install, it ws getting the cover on the washer back on that was hard for me since I am 68 yrs old and have a bad knee. Its why it took me two hours to do what most people could do in 20 minutes.

I read the instructions on the internet. It told me what to trouble shoot first. The switch on the door then the thermo fuse and after that the thermostat. The off on switch on the door checked ok but the thermo fuse didn't when I followed the instructions on the internet. The thermostat did check ok. When I installed the new thermo fuse the dryer started like always before. I was pretty proud of myself for saving a hundred dollars or more. Thank you for the hlpful instructions.Larry

Opened machine up, removed electric control panel, removed door assembly, removed lint collector assembly, removed and replaced 2 sensor bars then reassembled machine. Ended up not being the problem but, I now have new moisture sensing bars.

After reviewing the video of the fellow popping out the old door catch with a putty knife and popping in a new one, I tried that myself and there was no way it was going to come out without applying enough pressure to tear up the finish on the door. Tried the option of compressing the catch vertically with pliers and could get top or bottom out but not both. Believe my I have a garage full of tools and am very handy and this method was not going to work on my dryer. Finally removed the door and laid on carpet, took out all the screws and removed the catch from the back by squeezing with pliers. Replaced with the catch from the other side after doing the same.Re-assembled no problem. Ordered a replacement that I put in the unused side for next time.

It was simply a replacement filter. No work just replace in slot. Thanks for great service and for sending in one day! We were shocked that the part arrived in one day! Will use your service again!