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11062182103 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 11062182103
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Screen on the hot air vent disintegrated
It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.
Parts Used:
DUCT-AIR
  • Thomas from Edgartown, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Noisy
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
Parts Used:
Dryer Seal Outlet Housing
  • Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer made squeaking noise, then more of a rumbling noise.
Checked this site for most likely needed parts and ordered. Located full repair manual inside unit after removing lid. Followed instructions in manual to take apart and remove the drum; took pictures at each removal step and used pill organizer to keep screws in correct order and quantity. The metal cylinder in the center of the idler pulley had ground away so the idler pulley with bracket was replaced. (There was a lot of metal dust that had to be cleaned.) One of the rollers did not turn smoothly so that was also replaced. After putting drum back in, reversed the steps to reassemble and referred to photos to make sure did in correct order and did not forget anything.
Parts Used:
Drum Support Shaft - Rear Shaft with Left Hand Threads WPW10359272 Dryer Drum Support Roller Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • JAMES from NORTH OLMSTED, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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My dryer stopped heating
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
  • Jennifer from CLINTON, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Support Roller
  • Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken Drum Belt
Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive
  • Garry from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive Idler Pulley
  • Ricardo from ARBUCKLE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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My idler pully was squealing
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Roller Berings were worn out - replaced both
Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair
Parts Used:
Dryer Drum Support Roller
  • Gregory from COCOA, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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No Gas Heat
I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Debra from Springfield, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Whirlpool Gas dryer, run but no heat
I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Fred from Macomb, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer would not start!
Unplug unit first.
Took the front cover off the front of dryer below the door.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Manny from ODESSA, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Dryer squealing loudly during operation
Unplug dryer from 220VAC outlet

Remove bottom cover panel, slip a flat blade screwdriver into each clamp, and bottom piece becomes removable. Pull forward and lift bottom cover piece.

Pull up top section from dryer frame. Disconnect dryer door off/on contact three wire switch by pressing plastic connector together. You may need a small flat blade screwdriver to seperate connector.

Remove two Torx (T15 head) screws in the far left and right corners of the front door panel.

Remove two screws underneath dryer lint screen, be careful to not let front door and front cover fall forward. The rotating dryer drum will now be loose.

Underneath drum, there is a cover panel over the dryer motor. Likely you will find a bunch of lint all about. This dryer had likely not been cleaned in many years.

Remove screws on dryer motor cover.
Remove panel. Likely, you’ll more lint about.
After vacuuming, use a flashlight and hand mirror to locate belt tensioner, back side of motor. If your belt is not broken, press down on the tensioner spring and remove belt from tensioner and motor. Inspect belt, replace if worn. In this instance the belt was well worn.

Slowly pull dryer drum forward, walking belt along as you bring drum forward out of the dryer casing.

At this point you have plenty of room to access the one bolt holding the tensioner, in this instance it was a 13mm socket. Be careful to remove the tensioner springs before removing the bracket. Your PartsSelect is an identical match to the original one.

Install new tensioner, tighten slightly, then put springs back on.

Reverse this entire process to get your dryer back together and back running smooth and quiet as it was when new.

This dryer was quieter than its owners remembered it being back when new 15 years ago.

Well worth saving the $ doing your own work.

Good luck on your repair endeavor!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Joseph from WEST PALM BCH, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the 11062182103
61 - 75 of 520