Models > 1105804501

1105804501 Kenmore Washer - Overview

Sections of the 1105804501

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Centerpost Gasket – Part Number: W10814296
Centerpost Gasket
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS11723081
Manufacturer #: W10814296
Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
$7.34
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP285655
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11740613
Manufacturer #: WP285655
This hose clamp is sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Washer Transmission Stem Seal – Part Number: WP8577376
Washer Transmission Stem Seal
PartSelect #: PS11746747
Manufacturer #: WP8577376
Sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WP33002973
Screw
PartSelect #: PS11741141
Manufacturer #: WP33002973
This screw is sold individually.
  No Longer Available
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw – Part Number: WPW10119828
Lid Hinge Mounting Screw
PartSelect #: PS11748588
Manufacturer #: WPW10119828
Sold individually. NOTE: The color on the screw may not be the same as the image, but will still function the same.
$12.00
  In Stock
Hose Clamp – Part Number: WP356138
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11741854
Manufacturer #: WP356138
This clamp helps to prevent leaking by holding the end of water hose in place.
$13.81
  In Stock
Spanner Nut – Part Number: WP21366
Spanner Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738884
Manufacturer #: WP21366
Right hand threaded nut holds the tub in place in direct drive, top loading washing machines. To remove the spanner nut you will need a spanner wrench.
$13.81
  In Stock
Support Roller Clip – Part Number: WP90296
Support Roller Clip
PartSelect #: PS11746832
Manufacturer #: WP90296
Sold Individually.
$6.83
  In Stock
Front Top Lock – Part Number: WP18776
Front Top Lock
PartSelect #: PS11738705
Manufacturer #: WP18776
This part is used to secure the top panel to the cabinet. Sold individually.
$16.82
  In Stock
Lid Hinge Bearing – Part Number: WP21258
Lid Hinge Bearing
PartSelect #: PS11738874
Manufacturer #: WP21258
This is the bearing for the lid hinge. Sold individually.
$14.15
  In Stock
Water Pressure Hose - Cut-to-Fit – Part Number: WP353244
Water Pressure Hose - Cut-to-Fit
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★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS11741846
Manufacturer #: WP353244
This is the hose that tells your appliance if your tub is at the desired water level.
$79.23
  In Stock
Lid Hinge Pad – Part Number: WP21097
Lid Hinge Pad
PartSelect #: PS11738862
Manufacturer #: WP21097
Sold individually.
$13.81
  Special Order

Questions And Answers for 1105804501

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Common Symptoms of the 1105804501

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Leaking
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Noisy
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Will not agitate
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Lid or door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
leaking from tub
First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it to the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Parts Used:
Centerpost Gasket
  • Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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broken clip on top panel hold down
pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.
Parts Used:
Front Top Lock
  • Mark from Huntington Station, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Dryer Top Panel is Loose
1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes
Parts Used:
Front Top Lock
  • MONTE from CHESAPEAKE, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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