11020982990 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Too simple. The old one practicaly fell off and all I had to do was push the new one into place. It locked itself in and was ready to use.

No more rattling or noise when it runs now.

I did a Google search for the model number and found this site, PartSelect.com. Based on the diagrams on the site and what I could see underneath the washer, it was clear that the motor coupling was now gone and the shattered pieces of it were all over the floor. So I ordered a new coupling and waited for it to arrive, it was shipped in just a few days. Once I had the new coupling all I had to do was remove a couple of brackets holding the pump onto the motor, and the motor onto the gearbox; unplug the electrical terminals and lift the motor out. There are two halves to the coupling, one sits on the shaft of the gearbox and the other on the shaft of the motor. Both of these are seated into a rubber boot that is also a part of the coupling. Once the motor is sitting on the gearbox with all the coupling parts seated in place, just plug everything back in and replace the brackets. You will need a 1/4 socket to remove/replace the motor brackets. Also, it should be noted that you will want to unhook everything that is hooked to the wall (hoses, power cord) but it assumed you've already done this if you have access the the underneath of the washer.

I always tought that I could never fix my own washer with so little time and with less than $25 dollars so good that our washer is working like new once again thanks to partselect. . . . I will be happy to buy from you any time.

First I screamed at the ceiling, because I have a three year old and an infant, and the washing machine was dead. Then I went to youtube. It seemed like the "agitator dogs" were the issue.

In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.

Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.

Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.

Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.

But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops.

Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Removal - Un plugged machine, removed water level pressure switch knob. Removed two Phillips head screws holding the control panel onto the top of the machine and the two hex head screws holding the control panel onto the machine back plate. Tilted the control panel forward. Disconnected the clear plastic tubing from the water level pressure switch. and removed cannon plug from the water level pressure switch. Depressed release lever on water level pressure switch and rotated counter clockwise about an 1/8 of a turn. Then removed water level pressure switch.

Installation - Installed water level pressure switch onto the hole in the control panel and rotated it about 1/8 of a turn clockwise to lock it into place. Connected the existing clear plastic tubing, since there was nothing wrong with it, and the hose clamp onto the water level pressure switch by pressing it onto the plastic nipple. Pressed the cannon plug and wires onto the water level pressure switch. Positioned the control panel into place and secured it using the two Phillips head screws. Installed the two hex head screws holding the control panel to the machine back plate. Plugged machine into wall outlet. Job complete.

Took out old parts and put in news ones, super easy and works great!!

Followed the video. Removed the case and holder clips (not really needed) and replaced the springs. It did nothing to stop the problem and there are no more fixes.

Followed the video posted on the website. Everything went great - first repair attempt took about 45 minutes. Time consumed mostly due to the straps that hold the motor in place being very difficult to put back on and that the cabinet was a little difficult to replace due to the amount of rust around the bottom of it. Tried out the washer when done, and noticed a burning rubber smell. Took everything apart again, checked it, and everything seemed to be ok (made sure all four rubber feet were in place on the motor) so put it all back together again. Noticed the smell again so took it apart a third time, and when the motor felt pretty warm, decided to do an internet search for "burning rubber smell after replacing drive motor coupling." The answer popped right up - the replacement parts were not solid plastic like the original ones- they had metal on the inside of them, and needed to be tapped, a bit forcefully, with a hammer and socket until flush on the both the motor and transmission axles. Once the parts were flush, the straps that hold the motor in place snapped right on. Still a challenge with the rusted cabinet, but once all together again, worked perfect! Thanks to this site , I have fixed washers, dryers, and refrigerators and used them now nearly 20 years! I showed my daughter and granddaughter how to repair them and they don't hesitate to pitch in and help or handle the repairs on their own - again with much appreciation to this sitefor the accurate "how to" videos, the right parts, fast shipping, and great prices.

Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!

Removed the outside body of washer. Used 1/2 plywood between drum and wear pads to make space to pry out pads with screwdriver. Replaced suspension springs and tub spring (use waterproof grease on end of springs. Put washer back together and tested. Problem solved washer not walking all over floor anymore. Thanks for you help.

Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss.
1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor.
2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve".
3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install.
4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft.
5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner.
6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place.
7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough.
8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place.
9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!

Followed instructions other customers provided for hose installation. Haven't installed agitator dogs yet. Need to watch the video on your web site.

Looked at the repair instructions on your web site and it made the repairs simple and easy.