This agitator assembly is a key component in many washing machines, designed to rotate back and forth during the wash cycle to help loosen dirt and stains from clothing. It features a central shaft with multiple fins that create friction between garments for effective cleaning. If the agitator fails to move properly or produces unusual no...Read moreises such as grinding or rattling, it may be damaged and require replacement. A faulty agitator can also lead to uneven distribution of clothes and poor wash results.
This lid lock assembly is designed for use in various top-load washing machines and serves as a critical safety feature. Located beneath the washer lid, it includes the locking mechanism and wiring harness that work together to prevent the lid from opening during operation. This helps protect users from exposure to moving parts, hot water...Read more, or detergent spills. If the lid lock is faulty, the washer may fail to start or stop unexpectedly mid-cycle. Replacing the assembly is essential to restore safe and reliable performance. This OEM part is sold as a complete unit and is compatible with a range of washer models.
If your washer isn’t spinning, agitating, or cleaning clothes like it used to, the gearcase might be the issue. This part powers the agitator and spin basket, helping your machine run smoothly. It fits many Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid models and can fix problems like loud noises or a washer that won’t spin. Be sure to unplug your appliance before starting the repair.
This clutch slider kit is part of the transmission system in select washing machines, helping control the movement and speed of the agitator during wash and spin cycles. The kit includes a clutch band, slider, and lock ring, and allows the machine to start, stop, and shift speeds smoothly. If worn or damaged, it can cause issues like nois...Read morey operation, difficulty spinning, or failure to start properly. Replacing the kit restores proper function and helps maintain efficient performance.
This clutch assembly is designed for use in top-load washing machines, where it plays a crucial role in engaging the transmission during both the agitation and spinning cycles. If your washer is experiencing issues such as failing to agitate or spin properly, a worn or faulty clutch may be the cause. Replacing the clutch requires accessin...Read moreg the underside of the washer, and basic tools such as a socket wrench and screwdriver will be needed for installation. This component is sold with a single securing screw and is intended to restore proper mechanical function to your appliance, helping ensure smooth and efficient operation during wash cycles.
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Tracy - For model number 11020372710
March 26, 2020
I had a service tech come out and he ordered a valve, water inlet to replace the one on my machine. That was a week ago and i need my washer. I wanted to see if i could just order the part myself and get it here any faster
Hi Tracy,
Thank you for your question. The part number listed under your model number for the water inlet valve is PS12349461. This part is on order, which means it is not in stock but we have placed an order for this part with the manufacturer, we are awaiting delivery. On order items usually ship in 7 - 10 business days. To place an order for the part you may order it either online, by visiting our live chat sessions, Monday to Friday from 8AM to 4PM EST, or by calling our customer service line at 1-888-738-4871 and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Brad - For model number 11020372710
August 23, 2023
Today, my washer didn't power on when I touched the sensor. Nothing. No sounds, no lights. I've unplugged it for a minute to try and reset the motherboard. I've checked the breakers and the outlet and they are working as expected. I've read that only the motherboard shorting out would cause this. Does that sound reasonable? And how hard is it to change the motherboard?
Hi Brad, thank you for reaching out. It sure does sound like the control board has gone bad. Part number PS12074702 is what you need. Usually pretty simple to install. We hope this helps.
Final rinse and spin on any cycle of the washing machine is not working. Even the clean washer cycle works until it gets to the last rinse and spin.
Hello Barbara, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Drain Pump Filter, part number PS11750500, Drain Pump, part number PS11738156, and Control Board, part number PS12074702. We look forward to hearing from you if you need assistance with placing an order through our 7-days-a-week customer service. We hope this helps!
Hi Jo, thank you for contacting us. According to our research, this washer is 4.7 Cu. Ft. The dimensions of this washer are: Depth, 29", Height, 37", Width, 27.5". We hope this information helps!
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Loud grinding noise when the washer was in use.
70 of 85 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Charles from STARKVILLE, MS
Easy
1- 2 hours
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.
open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate
2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.
3.) remove wash plate
... Read more( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it. Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.
4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.
5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.
6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.
7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.
8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.
9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.
10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.
11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.
12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.
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Washer making noise on spin cycle
20 of 29 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Roy from MAYNARDVILLE, TN
Really Easy
30 - 60 mins
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer
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Clicking Noise When Agitating
18 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Chad from SAINT AMANT, LA
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Socket set
- Shut off power to the washer - Removed cap on top of agitator - First, I tried using a ratchet set to remove the bolt that is inside the agitator at the baseplate. Tub would spin when I tried this method, so I used an air impact with long extensions. One press of the impact and the bolt loosened. - Tied a pair of shoelac
... Read morees together and stuffed them inside the seam around the agitator baseplate. I put the shoelaces half way around the baseplate. Get it in the seam then with two hands, each with an end of the shoelace, pull up on the baseplate. Success!! - Installed the new agitator with base plate and then used the ratchet set to tighten the bolt. Didn’t want to take a chance on stripping the bolt inside the agitator with the air impact when tightening.
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