11020052994 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Second time I did this. Same repair about 4 years ago. Pretty easy. Take the cabinet enclosure off, take pump off, remove motor and replace the coupling. Since the coupling is now reinforced with metal, a little more difficult to get on the drive shafts of the motor and the clutch drive?. $20.00 saved me $500.00 for now with a relatively easy repair and hopefully with reinforced part, it will last a little longer.

This model is a compact / apartment size washer and the repair was fairly easy. The lid is held on by 2 spring clips on the front and 2 tabs on the rear. I used a screwdriver to pop the top off the clips, removed the screws on the tabs, unplugged the switch and set the top aside. Took out 2 screws (all screws are 5/16" hex head) on the left side panel (facing the front of the machine) and set it to the side. The pump is clearly visible at this point. Tipped the washer and propped it up for easier access. Removed the 2 hose clamps (set a pan underneath first) and the pump is held in place by 2 spring clips. Popped those off and the pump came right out. Put the new pump in, snapped the spring clips on, put the hose clamps back in place, the side panel and the lid. Not at all hard to do. About 30 to 45 minutes and I was doing laundry again.

First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.

Well, after resolving Part Select (PS) shipping issues (PS sent me two refrigerator glass shelves instead of a Tub Spring); And as it turns out they sent me the wrong part for the suspension pads, which I have returned for credit. It takes 3-4 weeks to obtain your credit BTW.

Well after removing the cabinet, agitator, wash basket, plastic tub, all 5 springs, & pump suction line, I was able to access the Tub wear pads and suspension pads. As it turns out the suspension pads looked good.
Thank God, as PS had sent wrong parts. I replaced the wear pads, the 5 springs, and reversed the disassembly process. Took about 6 hours.
But washer works fine now, still vibrates, but does not walk across floor any more.

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

Removing top console control panel, deataching 2 clips and removiong the entire box to get access to the agitator and the direct drive, one part on the top and other on the bottom of the washer,removing top cap of the spinner got access to the agitator. Using 1/2" socked and pliers remove & rep[lace the agitator. for the direct coupling: remove the water pump (2 clips) 1/4" socked & screw driver remove the electrical Motor, remove & replace the direct coupling, put all removed parts back toguether, reasembly the box ataching clips on place, console panel Install, perform operational check, was good I have the washer running like a new machine.

Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.

Unplug power cord. Turn off hot and cold water to washer. Disconnect water lines at the back of the washer, but mark which is hot and cold on the hoses . Remove drain hose from the sink tub or sewer line but keep it elevated so the water don't run out. Tip over on the backside but put something under the back side like a tool box to keep the top elevated a little bit, but not on the control panel just below it. Now remove the two screws that are in the motor retainer. Now pry motor retainers loose then lift out motor and remove old coupling. Now install new coupling. If it is a little tight on the shaft, use a deep socket a little bigger than the shaft to tap them on. Line up coupling while putting motor in place. Then snap on motor retainers. Look at the coupler make sure it is straight and not s shape. If it is s shape, remove and tap coupler on shaft a little more. If it is straight then reinstall the two screws you removed in the beginning from the motor retainers. Hook up drain line, water lines hot to hot, cold to cold. Then check for leaks on water lines. Plug in ,turn on, if it sounds ok. Don"t stand there, wash something.

Make sure you UNPLUG your washer first. It is also a good idea to remove the water intake hoses from the back to avoid damage to them or the valves.

Getting the outer panels off was the hardest part for me. There are 2 screws on the back of the function panel. You don't have to remove the screws completely, just until they are unscrewed from the bottom base. Then I gently pulled forward and up on the function panel and it flips back exposing the wiring. There is one wire harness plug that needs to be disconnected toward the center of the panel.
There are 2 large metal clips that are removed by pressing a flat head screwdriver into them. Press down and slightly toward the front of the washer and it will release the clip. Be careful, mine popped up and flew behind the washer.
Once the clips are removed you can pull the entire caging of the washer (top, front, right and left side panels as one) away from the machine. This will expose the entire innards of the washer.
In the front at the bottom is the water pump. It is very easily removed. Pinch the clamps around the hoses with a pair of pliers and move them up the hoses. Pull both hoses off the pump.
There are 2 metal clamps holding the pump in place. You can release them using a flat head screwdriver as well. Once free from clamps, the pump can be pulled straight forward to be removed.
Replace the pump with the new one, placing it in the same place and position as the old one. Attach the clamps back on. Mine were really hard to reattach as the tension was really tight.
Then slide the hoses back on and use the pliers to squeeze and slide the clamps back down the hoses to secure them to the pump.
Replace the cage of the machine. On my particular model, the front panel hooks under a metal lip and the side panels rest on them, so it was a challenge getting it back into place by myself in the small area I was working in.
Replace the metal clips on the top using the flat head screwdriver by pulling slightly toward the front of the washer and pressing down.
It was a little scary, I thought I was going to pinch myself.
Then reattach the one wire harness, flip the console back down and secure tightly.
Screw the 2 screws back in on the back of the function panel and your done. Reattach the hoses and plug in your washer.

This was my first washer repair. I did it with some sketchy online instructions for a different model washer. It took forever to get the washer open and was even more frustrating to put it back together. Changing out the pump was simple once I got in there. I saved over $100 in labor by doing this myself and in only took about 45 minutes.
I think I'm ready to open up the dryer and give it a good cleaning.

Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.

i had to strip the outer housing of the wahing machine apart the remove the motoe from the transmission to get to the coupling. once i recived the coupling( which was very quickly) i just reversed those steps.

Just watched the video. Take from a 63 year old. Who never fixed a washer. Thx a lot for the video it saved me a lot of money being on a fix income. and it was less than $ 10 that was included shipping.

I went to Youtube, looked up motor coupling repair for a Kenmore/Whirlpool washer. Chris Fix had an easy to follow video. I tilted the machine back, propped it up. Removed four clips holding two parts in place. Replaced the faulty coupler, Set the engine back in place replaced the clips, and was finished for a total price of $18.

Half inch extension. Removed plastic set piece. Remove agitator cap. Remove ring remove worn cogs. Replaced new cogs Replace lock ring, back together. 10 minutes

Removed Softner dispenser and cap. With a 3/8" socket wrench and extension And 7/16" socket I took out the screw holding the agitator and removed top section of agitator. Turned upside down and removed the rubber grommet that holds the cogs in place. Replaced cogs and reinstalled grommet. Aligned top part of agitator with 2 tabs and put back in place and secured with 7/16" screw. Replaced cap And dispenser. Good to go. Works perfectly. Very easy repair.