1071-003A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed the lower panel (two screws near the floor, two screws with the door open).

Remove screws holding the top of the dishwasher in place.

Remove two screws holding the incoming water switch.

Pull the dishwasher out to access the left side of the dishwasher.

With the door closed remove the spring (replaced both left and right).

Test the motion of the door.

Reverse the process
1. push dishwasher back in
2. Attach water switch bracket
3. Attach top screws that hold the dishwasher in place
4. Replace lower panel
5. Attach screws for lower panel

Test the door motion,

I replaced the gasket a couple of years ago for less than $50. The springs with shipping for less than $25. I wonder how much longer the dishwasher will last. The repairs are easier than putting in a new dishwasher and a whole lot cheaper.

My dishwasher started leaking at the beginning of the summer. We didn't know what to do, but didn't want to call an appliance repairman. Towards fall, a friend came over and pulled it out and found the heating element brass nut which was broken. We put it back in and washed dishes the old-fashioned way for another 3 months after that. I asked at my local hardware store for the part, and thought about trying one of those big-box do-it-yourself stores but never got around to it. Finally after getting sick and tired of doing all the dishes in the house by hand, I found your site, and the part I needed and ordered two (just-in-case). A few days later, we got the part, I pulled the dishwasher out again, screwed on the new nut by hand and put it back into place. We're in business!

I watched the video on the website on how to remove the top rack, and installed the new wheel and bushing. Simplest fix I ever did.

Removed the front panel below door, 4 screws. Removed 1 screw that help relay on frame. Moved 3 wires from old relay to new. Installed relay to frame, installed panel and done.

I recently bought a vacation home in New Hampshire, and had a very detailed home inspection performed. The dishwasher unit was checked out to be in fine shape. Before moving in, I had all the hardwood floors refinished, including the kitchen, and everything looked great. After moving in and using the dishwasher twice, it developed a major leak coming from the bottom of the unit. "Here goes more money that I don't have, to hire an appliance repairman to fix this leak!" I decided to take the bottom kick panel off the dishwasher to see where the leak was coming from. It was coming from the the connection of the heater element at the bottom of the dishwasher. I found a brass nut had been cracked and wouldn't stay tight any more. I ordered the replacement nut from Partselect, RECEIVED IT THE NEXT DAY!!!!! using regular ground shipping, and installed the new nut using a socket set, and tested the unit. No more leaks!! Partselect saved me at least $150.00 on a service call for a $3.50 part. I'm not the handiest guy around, but even this was easy!
I also scored big points with the wife on my handyman repair! Thanks Partselect!

Greg

I removed some philips screws from the kick plate along the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed some trim screws on the sides of the bottom door panel (the smaller panel below the door on the front of the dishwasher). There were also two screws into the top of the lower panel that you can only see when the door is open. This let me remove the whole lower door panel and kick plate. It was now possible to see the springs on the left and right, and it is actually possible to change them at this point, just with access through the front. However, it is very awkward. Contrary to what some repairs have said, it really is much easier if you can pull the dishwasher out from under the counter about 6 inches. To do that, you'll have to unbolt it, and that will vary depending on how yours was mounted. You may find brackets along the front, screws or bolts through the frame into the floor, and/or retaining straps from the top up to the counter.

Beyond that, it's simple. You'll see that the spring hooks into a slot or hole on a large L-shaped bracket that moves with the door. There is one on each side at the bottom of the door. The other end of each spring hooks through a hole in the frame rail on the bottom. There will likely be several holes, letting you choose how tight you want the spring (this controls how easily the door will drop).
A pair of needlenose pliers is handy for getting the spring end into the holes.

Again, it was a lot easier doing this from the outside of the dishwasher after pulling it out a few inches.

Isolated the leak and found the nut had split thereby allowing a loose seal and water penetration. Ordered 2 nuts just in case the other goes and the installation was easy. Unplug the unit, remove baseplate, remove screws under the countertop, and slide the unit out a bit. Use needlenode pliers to remove terminal connection and replaced nut. Reverse it for assembly. 3 minutes tops $6 later it is done. Easy money saved by a DIY.

Removed bottom cover , PLACED TAPE ON SHARP EDGES OF ALL METAL!!!!!!! Pulled electrical connections off with long reach pliers , removed old split nut ,it was loose !!!!!! . Placed new nut into deep socket , started by hand until sung ,then attached small short 1/4 ratchet to socket and took two (2) turns . Reattached wires with long pliers, Tested on short cycle and nooooo,leaks !!!!!!!! SAVED HUNDREDS OF $$$$$$$. Replaced lower cover .ITS NOT ROCKET SCIENCES. GET AFTER IT !!!!! Bill.

There were 4 zip ties holding old silverware basket on to bottom rack snip them, remove basket install new basket with zip ties both ends 2 more in middle about 1-2” apart. Try to install ties about 1/2 way up on basket so it doesn’t get top heavy.

Removed 2 screws from the Access Panel and 2 screws from the Toe Plate using a Phillips head screwdriver. The broken spring was removed and replaced using the opposite spring as a guide as to the position of the spring. The opposite side (the unabroken one) was replaced. The panels were screwed back into place. End of repair.

The new roller just snapped in place.

Just snapped the wheels on and attached the bracket to the existing part.

just slid the wheel on.

Just pushed it onto the rod that held the old one

All you have to do power down the unit, then disconnect the power connections at the element and remove the old nuts and replace them with the new ones and tighten. Don't tighten too much, the element has a rubber seal that just needs the nut to snug it up.