1068650810 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

replaced relay switch
when I finally got started to do the repair it took 15 minutes my biggest delay was no instructions were sent with the part and it took time to get some

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

I simply slid off the broken supports, and slid the new ones on.

I removed one bolt and took out the old roller after first blocking up the fridge. Then I was puzzled for a moment because the hole in the new assembly was not tapped. But then I saw that the old bolt was a self tapping bolt. I used it to tap the hole then removed it and installed the new assembly. No sweat job.

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.

replaced retainers. remove and replace four(4) phillips screws.

Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.

Very easy. Left the front of the refrigerator so it is approx. 4 inches of the floor. (used a two by four. Removed the screws (one for each roller). Removed the rollers and replaced with new rollers. Reinstalled the screws with secures the rollers to the refrigerator. Done

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.