This is an authentic replacement part that has been sourced from the original manufacturer to be used with pressure washers from Briggs & Stratton and Troy-Bilt. The hardware is used to attach the mot...
This is an authentic OEM part for use with Briggs and Stratton Pressure Washers. The chemical injection connector connects the chemical injector to the pump. This part is sold individually. The most c...
It is a high-quality item that is supplied by the original equipment for use with Briggs and Stratton, Troy-Bilt and Snapper pressure washers. The kit includes a fitting that allows a user to connect ...
This bottle of oil can be used in over 150 different types of machinery. It is most commonly used for pressure washers and generators from manufacturers such as Briggs and Stratton and Troy-Bilt. This...
This is a genuine Briggs and Stratton and Troy-Bilt part for use with Pressure Washers. The unloader valve kit includes the parts needed to replace the unloader valve, which opens to relieve water pre...
This is a genuine OEM sourced replacement part that is intended to be used with pressure washers from Craftsman. The screen fits into the water inlet tube and is used to prevent debris from the hose f...
This genuine OEM sourced replacement part is designed for use with pressure washers. If the pressure washer runs too long with out the release of water from the sprayer, the water will heat up inside ...
Keep in mind that this high-quality part is made of metal and is sold individually. A set of pliers might be helpful during the installation of this part. The e-ring fits onto the wheel and will need ...
$8.95
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I order the part from this site and received it within a week. the only problem was that spring was missing out of the sealed bag. NO PROBLEM!!! I cut a ball point pen spring to fit and everything works just fine. You just have to remember to put the spring in first, then the ball bearing and then the rubber o-ring.If you put them in backwards you pressure will fed directly into your chemical container!!
I loosened the rear motor mounts which protrude through slots in the frame using a 15mm open end allowing the engine to be moved enough to pass the front mounts through both the frame and the engine mounting holes. The upper bolts on the front mounts don't have enough clearance for a socket or box end and the open end gets less than a quarter turn at a time unless you remove the wheels. I just took my time and tightened the nuts being careful not to round the corners. The lower bolt/nuts present no problem.
