Oven Igniter WB13T10045

After removing the door and the lower pan cover, I removed 4 screws holding down the flame spreader. Once the flame spreader was off, I was looking at the two screws that hold on the igniter assembly. For some reason, these seemed to be the worst part of the repair. One screw broke off at the head as soon as I tried to loosen it. The other was apparently stripped during the initial installation. Due to lack of space to fit the dremel tool in the area, it took quite some time to remove the second screw. Once I finally got those removed, it was a piece of cake. The assembly easily pulled out approximately 4 inches to disconnect the plug. The new plug was easy to insert and push back in the cavity behind the oven. I had extra sheet metal screws, so the installation of the new assembly took less than 10 minutes. As I said, the worst part was the stripped screw and lack of space to get the proper tool to remove it.

LIke the other posters, this should have been an easy fix. From internet research my official self-diagnosis was that either the ignitor didn't work or there was a problem with a temperature sensor or control module. At $70 for the part vs. $230 to get a Sears repair main out here (in two weeks time?!), I rolled the dice and decided to order the part.

Taking the door off of the oven took a bit of figuring out (back to the internet), but once you know how it's very easy - 10 seconds.

After you take off the door, you then take out what I would call a heat shield that goes across the entire bottom of the oven (no tools needed) and then remove the 'heat spreader' with a socket set. That came off easy as well. Total time maybe 5 minutes.

Then the fun started. One of the two screws that connects the igniter sheared off. Luckily it sheared in a way that it didn't hold the ignitor any more, and the other screw maintained its integrity so in the end I could re-attach the ignitor. Ignitor off in less than 5 minutes.

All the repair guides say that you just unplug the ignitor from the quick disconnect plug and replace it with the new one. Sounds great but I couldn't get to the quick disconnect - the wires wouldn't pull far enough out to reveal the quick disconnect. I could see it and feel it with a finger in the hole, but either the wires weren't long enough or it was caught on something (felt like the former). I tried pulling harder, but got to a point where I felt I was going to break something and so I stopped.

I then started looking at how I could get the back of the oven off or another way to get access to that quick disconnect. Long story short - you can't do it through the front of the oven, you have to pull the entire oven out and go through a hatch in the back of the oven. Once I had figured that out everything was ok, but it took me 2 days of poking around for 10 minutes here, going to the internet there, and back and forth to decide I couldn't get to it from the front and how exactly to pull the oven out (turns out the type with the controls on the front hangs down from the counter itself and doesn't slide out easy - it takes some elbow grease to actually do it.).

In the end I wasn't confident I could get it back in by myself if I slide it completely out, so I pulled it part-way and then climbed on the counter and then into the small space I had created behind the stove.

Everything said and done I spent a couple hours messing with this. It turns out that the wires for both ignitors were routed around each other incorrectly and when I reconnected the new ignitor correctly I could pull the ignitor through the front of the oven like you're supposed to do. Glad it's fixed, but nothing is ever as easy as it should be...

Self-diagnosed the repair over the internet. The "hardest part" was figuring how to remove the oven door (needed instruction manual for that one). Once off, four screws to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven compartment revealed the igintor assembly. The two screws securing the assembly snapped off due to corrosion, but aside from that literally plug-in and replace. PartsSelect site was the least expensive and the part arrived the next day as indicated. All my repairs should go this easy.

The only difficult part of the repair was getting the original screws out of the old igniter and oven gas arm. Once I drilled the old screws out the repair was done within 20 minutes.

First remove the oven door. Then remove the grills,and finally the bottom cover plate exposing the oven igniter assembly.The only tool needed is a 1/4 inch socket to remove approximately eight screws.The igniter is a plug type device having a male amphenol.Pull the wires towards you to expose the connector,make the repair being careful to shove the connector back from whence it came and reassemble all the parts..Done!

There are 2 screws to remover to replace the element. That was the hard part as they were very stubborn to get out. I have to use a flexible bit and an impact driover to get them loose. Other than that, the replacement was smooth as silk !!

remove the oven door to remove the lower oven tray next remove the four 1/4 in. head screws from the burner cover to get access to the igniter remove the two 1/4 in.screws with small socket, wires must be pulled out from behind the oven rear wall to get access to the connector plug, disconnect and attach new connector to plug and tuck wires and plug back behind oven insulation reinstall screws in igniter bracket at this time i tried the oven,it lit , reinstall burner cover,oven tray and oven door .

Removed racks, removed bottom cover ( slides out)- removed burner cover and burner- ignitor screws were both stripped where they attatch to burner so i just drilled them out and installed the new ignitor with two nut, bolt lock washer combos. Re-assembled and mamma was happy to bake again!

Removed racks and inner oven casing. Had to slide oven out and disconnect power. The screws holding ignitor on the inside were stripped so that delayed us a bit. We used impact drill to remove other parts but socket set would work too. Fixed the problem and we were up and running in no time.

Turn gas off. Remove front door by pulling the lock covers back and pulling door up. Remove all cooking racks. Push back and lift enamel cover plate. Remove heat shield. Either use crosstip screwdriver or nutdriver (ratchet driver works as well, all the ovens have a different size nut/screw so check your size) and remove ignitor. Remove small shield and gas burner tube from pan. Remove all nut/screws from pan, lift up and pull towards front (ignitor can not go through pan) exposing electrical connector behind insulation. Disconnect and pull through pan. Replace pan (I had to replace older pan due to rust) and push connector from new ignitor through hole and connect to plug. Push pan in attach new ignitor (easier) to gas tube burner and place burner back through hole. Reattach shield and burner to tube to pan. At this point I tested the new ignitor which worked perfectly. Turn off oven. Place heat shield over burner tube. Replace enamal cover plate. Replace oven racks. Place door and lock holders on the hinges. Easy. BTW I am 70 and it took me just at 25 minutes with set up for tools, door, rack and enamel cover removal, heat shield removal and then the more labor intensive nut/screw removal, old ignitor and gas burner tube removal, pan removal, new ignitor replacement, new pan replacement, gas tube with shield attachment, heat shield attachment, enamel cover, grill racks and door attachment. Perfect parts fit well work well.