With this high limit/safety thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees Fahrenheit. This element is meant as a safety device, will kick back in when the temperature drops to 210 degrees Fahrenheit. (Limit: 260-50)
Average Repair Rating: 2.7 / 5.0, 6 reviews.
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Intermittent then no heat
First guess is one of the thermostats. Used ohm meter to test all 5 thermostats. All looked good. (first clue) Bypassed all thermostats, dryer worked. Ordered thermostats. (a couple at a time) Replaced thermostats. Dryer did not work. Tested heating element. Looked good. (Second Clue) Replaced heating element. Still no go! Dryer started working then stopped. Very confused. Ordered timer. Replaced timer. Everything great! Works like a new one. Moral to this story, trust your meter! Should have been a very easy repair. Replaced belt while dryer apart.
Pull the dryer away from the wall, UNPLUG, and remove vent hose. Insert thin metal sheet under the front corners of the lid, push in (hard) while lifting up the lid. The lid will pop up and hinge over and out of the way. Make a drawing of the wiring layout for the lamp and switch on the door, disconect the 3 wires, and remove the entire front panel (2 bolts inside at the top, then lift slightly and pull the panel away). From the back there is a panel for access to the motor/drive belt assy. Remove that panel, reach in, and release the spring loaded pressure on the drive belt. Disengage the Belt. Back at the front of the machine, working inside the drum remove the 3 allen head bolts at the center of the drum. Support the drum - it will drop a little. You can now lift the drum from the front and ease it out with the belt. There is a thermostat at 1 O'clock on the coil rim at the back (2 wires attached to it). To replace, disconnect the 2 wires. Remove the one or two screws, and pull out the thermostat. Install the new thermostat, attach the wires (either way), DONE. Other thermostat is at the bottom in the exhaust duct. Change it the same was as the other, reconnect wires. Remove the belt from the drum and and start working the drum back into the dryer. Loop the new belt over the drum, slide the drum all the way back. I slide 2 long screwdrivers through the screwholes in the drum, and looking down from the top align them with with the holes in the mounting plate. Slide the drum all the way in, reinstall the 3 allen head screws. Reinstall the front panel. Reattach and check all wiring (compare the front panel wiring to your drawing). Lower and snap in the lid. At the back of the unit reach back to the belt and reattach it to the spring assembly. Reinstall that panel, reconnect the exhause duct, slide the unit back and plug in.
Note that the heating problem was the thermostats, but I changed the belt since I was there anyway.
No Heat--dryer runs--Timer/Heat Selector does not advance
Ok so it finally died. Breakdown is relatively easy. UNPLUG the dryer before doing anything else. Remove the dryer vent plastic hose from the dryer--replace if torn. Remove the screws from the back plate covering the switches. Go to the front of the dryer--open door and locate 2 screws at about 11 and 12 o'clock. After removing these 2 screws you should be able to lift the top off the dryer. Take note of the wiring connections--I took a picture of the wiring from my cellphone just in case. Go behind the dryer and locate the access to the electric motor to remove the belt that spins the drum. There is a wheel/belt tensioner--remove the tension from the belt. You are now ready to lift the drum out. While you have this drum out, now is a good time to vacuum all the lint out. Once the drum is out, you'll see the heating element. If the wiring element is broke, just replace the wiring kit not the entire assemby (save $100). While you're at it replace the high limit and safety thermostats (about $28 for both) very easy to replace--unscrew and just replug the wires back to the original terminal locations. To replace the Timer/heat selector, remove a screw that holds the assembly and plug the wires back per your diagram or better if you took a picture from your cellphone. Assemble in reverse direction. Good luck!
Dryer was operating WAY TOO HOT! Potential FIRE Hazard!
I discovered that the High Limit Thermo was in place, but had been bypassed years ago. After lifting the top up, I finally found the HLT on the top left side in the back. I removed it, then put the new one in with its 2 screws. I put new lugs on its wires and put them back on. The dryer tested GOOD. No more potential Bar-B-Que! I did print a picture of the wiring diagrams that were on the back of the unit. This gave me the color code of the wires, where they were to be found, and what they did. This also helped. This GE Dryer is at least 26 years old! Newer Dryers in the Videos actually require more work removing things to get to the Thermostat. When I finally found it, the job went quick.
Other Parts Used:
Greg from MISSOULA, MT
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Over heating to the point of almost catching on fire
Took to many parts off to find out only needed to remove four front screws under the lid. I lifted the lid and found the thermostat and replaced same dryer now works great again at normal temps.
Other Parts Used:
Bill from PHILLIPSBURG, NJ
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Only heating on 'high' setting
Per suggestion of "Parts Select", I replaced the "high limit thermostat"....very simple task on the dryer: 1 - unplug from power source; 2 - remove screws securing top to front (open door, screws located beneath lip of unit); 3 - tilt top up allowing access to everything; 4 - remove connections to 'thermostat' (note which wires go where); 5 - loosen screws securing thermostat to unit and remove thermostat; 6 - vacuum any and all lint while unit is apart; 7 - install new thermostat and put everything back together; 8 - test dryer to see if repairs worked!
Other Parts Used:
E J from S HAMILTON, MA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Nick D
March 14, 2018
My dryer runs but will randomly heat on cycles. I find that it is taking 2-3 full cycles to dry clothing. Sometimes it heats and some it doesn't. Just trying to narrow down the correct part to order. I went through and cleaned out the entire inside. I am thinking it may be the high limit thermostat. Any advice?
For model number DLB3600SBLWH
Hello Nick, thank you for your question. Yes, the most likely issue for this kind of problem is the High Limit Thermostat Part Number: WE4X584. This part is located on the heating element housing. There are also two other thermostats on that element housing (Thermostat Part Number: WE4X813 and Thermostat - Limit: 325 Part Number: WE4X800) . You may want to test the three thermostats to be sure which one is faulty. To test these thermostat, first unplug the unit and set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Lawrence
February 24, 2018
The dryer was turned on at 6:00 pm, and did not shut off when it should have. It did not advance through the cycle. When this happened, the element was no longer working. How can I tell which thermostat kicked it off?
For model number NJLR473ET0WB
Hello Lawrence,
Thanks for your question. The high limit thermostats are the most likely solution to this issue, though you may want to use a multimeter to test them and the safety thermostat and replace any that do not show electrical continuity.
I hope this helps.
What is the best/easiest way to test the failure point resulting in reduced heating capacity? My dryer is either a 1975 or an 87, based on serial# (i don't know, my grandparent's bought it new!). It has the tube style heating element underneath the drum (part 134792700). Are the thermostats in series or parallel? If they're in series, which is first, second, third? On the tube style heating element, what would i be touching with multimeter probes to check continuity (if you want to reference the diagram picture from this site, that's fine: Https://www.Partselect.Com/ps2349309 Frigidaire 134792700 heater 3 element 5500w.Htm?Sourcecode=3&searchterm=134792700)? I know this is a multi pronged question. Thanks for the input!
For model number DDE9200GAL
Hello Matt,
Thank you for your question. To test these thermostat, first unplug the unit and set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps.
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Craig
November 19, 2024
Takes 2 or 3 cycles to dry clothes. watched the heating elements and no matter which setting I put dryer in (Hi heat,Medium or low) the elements turn on for about 30 seconds and than off for about 1:06 consistently. I suspect it's the Hi-Limit thermostat. The other two thermostats are located in front under the door. Hi-Drum Output and Low Drum Output. Not sure if these are the safety thermos.
For model number DDE7108VJL
Hi Craig,
Thank you for your question. If there is an air restriction in the dryer, the dryer will overheat and shut off. Inspect the lint filter, the lint filter duct, the exhaust hose and the exterior vent for for any blockages. Give these parts a thorough cleaning. See if the dryer is tripping the breaker and inspect the power cord for damage and wear and replace it if you have to. If the belt is worn or broken, it may cause the dryer to stop mid-cycle. If it is damaged replace it. If the dryer is not is not heating it may stop mid-cycle and you will need to check the thermostats and the heating element. You should also inspect the motor and the door switch. We hope this helps!
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