Control Board

Figured the board was bad since the settings would change if you touched the plastic face lightly.

Disconnected the power!

Removed the 2 screws off the back of the dryer top panel.

removed the 4 screws off the control face plate to access the Circuit board.

Disconnected the pc connectors and spade plugs (making sure to put them on the same spot on the old one).

Took the clock out of the original, LED light bars, front knob etc and put them into the replacement assembly.

Reinstalled and plugged in power.

Unplug dryer. Remove top lid (2 screws in rear)
Remove plastic front panel (4 screws) from behind. Carefully unsnap control board housing (no longer included w part) in order to disassemble and access control board. Remove molex connectors and note locations. Do not remove secondary smaller control board grom housing. Install new control board and reverse all steps.

To replace the faulty control board, I simply followed the step-by-step video that was already posted at Part Select. Dryer seems new again!

We took off the top of the dryer and then the front panel. The hard part was that the new control panel was a bare circuit board and did not come encased in plastic housing. So we had to remove the "old" plastic housing from the old panel and assemble it with the new circuit board. If you're used to this kind of repair and know what you're doing, it probably wouldn't be very difficult. But since we were complete novices, it took some finessing and head-scratching to make sure we were doing the right thing. And even then, we didn't know it was "the right thing" until we plugged the dryer back in. I feel like we got pretty lucky that it worked. But we are happy that we took the chance.

As per YouTube - new part required using old plastic housing. This necessitated the use of a grounding strap, most people might not know what that is. Fortunately, being an exAF technician I had one. :)