Washer Water Inlet Valve AJU75152601

Did the repair Myself. Saved $ 400.00 in the process.

I diagnosed by running a full wash. I watched it and when the water should have stopped it kept running. I unplugged the washer from the power and the water kept running. This told me the inlet valve was the issue and not an electronic issue. I stopped the water by closing the water valve manually. Replacing the inlet valve was very easy. Hardest part is moving the washer out of the laundry room. The videos online show very simple steps. Maybe 8 screws to remove and a couple of hoses and five electronic connectors. Take a photo of connectors before removing them to ensure you reconnect properly.

The problem was the valve suppling water to the bleach dispenser was not closing completely. This also caused some water leaking towards
the front of the washer. Replacing the entire valve assembly was very
easy. Unplug the washer, turn off the water, remove the 2 screws that attach the control panel, disconnect the water supplies, unplug the 5 solenoids, remove the hose clamps from the 2 hoses, remove the 3
screws that attach the valve assembly and remove it. Reassemble in reverse order, I did find that applying some water based personal lubricant to the 3 high pressure seals made assembly much easier.

After getting the model info from the back of the washer control panel, I searched Partselect for the water valve part. Easy process, It was here in 2 days. Unplug the machine, I took 2 screws out of the back of the control console and tipped it forward to reveal the valve assy. Turn off the water at the wall and disconnect the hot and cold lines from the washer . I removed the 3 screws holding the valve assy to the deck and with pliers disconnected the 2 clamped rubber lines and then with just finger pressure wiggled the valve from the remaining pipe connections. I swapped the 5 wire connectors to the new valve and wiggled it back into place. Clamped the 2 rubber lines again. and then connected the water inlet hoses to the new valve. Closed it up and called the laundry lady ( sorry honey) 30 minutes to Household harmony again!!

I noticed that my washer was leaking water into the tub. It was dripping, very slowly, but it was dripping. I noticed first, because it was starting to smell, and I didn’t understand why. Once I noticed that it was dripping, I checked online and noticed that the solenoid water inlet is most likely the problem. I found the part on parts, select, and confirmed with my model. The pictures were very close and similar, so I was pretty sure I was getting the cracked part. Once I received the part, it was time to fix it. You just have to turn the water supply off, remove the inlet lines with a adjustable wrench, if necessary, and then get to the washer. Make sure you also unplug the washer. There are only two Phillips head screws to remove to get the vanity cover off of the back. For whatever reason my removal was a little bit difficult for this. There are some plastic clips that hold the front portion on of the vanity plate. These were very tight, and I was afraid I would break them, but eventually they came loose with gentle upward pulling. Once this was off, it was super easy to identify the part that needed replacement. There are two hose clamps that you just need a pair of pliers to squeeze in slide off the hose. Then you remove three additional Phillips head screws, and the other connections pop out on their own. The solenoid plugs are very simple to slide off, and it is really difficult to put them on any other way. If you need to, you can take a few photos of the installation. Once you have the old one out, hook up the hoses first, and slide the hose clamps back to their original position. Once you have the two black hoses back on, reposition the new valve body, and slide the additional three prongs into the inlet soap dispenser. Make sure that the fit is snug. Don’t over push, the parts are plastic. Once this is done, reinsert, the three Phillips screws into their holes. Then you can reconnect the solenoids. At this point the replacement is done, and all you have to do is replace the vanity cover. Take time to ensure that you’ve done this correctly. I left the vanity cover off and ran a test load of dirty clothes to make sure that there were no leaks. Once I assure, there were no leaks, I put the vanity cover back on and put the two screws on. This was a very easy fix. Again, just go slow removing the vanity plate so you do not crack or break the tines in the front.

Replaced valve body, very easy to fix as per the video, runs normal.

Figured out how to remove the top door and the top panel that covered the solenoid bank. That was the hardest part. Swapping out the solenoid bank and the connector was easy. No more water leaking.

After unplugging the washer I cut the water off. I took the water hoses off, then the back top panel using a phillips head screw driver. I then used a pair of pliers to take off the two hoses and clamps. I unplugged the electric connection on each solenoid, took out 5 screws replaced the part and did everything in reverse order. Problem solved. Thanks for the fast service on my order.

turn off the water, unplug washer from power. remove two screws holding rear top plate. Here's the hard part. Pry the rear top plate from the top of the washer. It has multiple snap in guides across the front edge and they are very tight. Be careful and apply steady pressure straight up and they will eventually come free.
I marked each of the electrical inputs going to the old valve before removing. Remove the wiring harness. Again be careful and ease them off. the connectors
come apart easily. Remove the hose clamps with pliers and slip off the hoses. They are long enough that I trimmed off the soft ends of the old hoses and still had plenty of hose to reconnect. Remove the filler hoses. Remove the screws holding the valve to the machine. Re install the new valve in reverse order. Goes back in very easily.
Make sure to secure all the hoses. Run a wash cycle with an empty tub to make sure everything is working properly and nothing is leaking. Snap the rear top plate back into position and secure with the two screws Should take less than a couple of hours to do this job. Again the hardest part is getting the rear top plate off.

unplugged machine, turned off water valves. Moved machine away from the wall. Disconnected supply lines. Removed cover housing water valve assembly.
Took a picture with phone. Disconnected water and electrical wires. Removed water valve assembly . Installed new assembly ,cover and reconnected supply lines, plugged power cord in, turned on water supply valves. Done.