Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve WP8531669

After removing the kickplate covers from the bottom front of the dishwasher by removing the 2 screws that attached the covers I determined the inlet valve was leaking, I turned of the water and disconnected the electricity from the dishwasher.
I rolled the dishwasher from under the counter and removed the water supply line from the elbow at the bottom of the dishwasher inlet valve with an adjustable wrench. We then set the dishwasher on its back to gain easy access to the inlet valve.
To remove the inlet valve, Using a philips head screwdriver I removed the one screw holding the bracket and the valve was loose from the dishwasher. Then, two wires were removed from the valve by sliding the clips from the tabs on the valve. The hose that carries the water to the dishwasher was removed by squeezing the clamp with pliers and sliding it onto the hose and pulling the hose from the nipple.
With the valve removed from the dishwasher, the elbow for the supply line can be removed from the bottom of the old valve and installed on the new valve using teflon tape to seal the connection.
The new inlet valve was then installed by reversing the procedure.
Checked to make sure there are no leaks and the dishwasher was good as new.

First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.
Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.
Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.
Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).
Six: Remove two wire clips
Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)
Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///

I lake to send you pictures
-- Stanley --

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

First removed bottom kick plate cover to reveal the Inlet valve. Saw that it was leaking around the plastic around the solenoid. Turned of the water shutoff valve and unplugged the power cord. Unplugged the two wires from the valve and loosened and removed the tubing going into the valve. Removed two screws that hold the valve assembly to the front frame with a nutdriver. Slide assembly to the right and remove from the two slots. Ordered new valve from Partselect and replaced.

Remove and replace solinoid, remove and replace mico switch. These are the only two electrically controlled devieces controling water flow. Replacing switch without replacing housing takes a soft touch. A small screw driver helps. Electrical connections have a stay in place nipple. Plyers help get thoes off.

Parts delivered as promised, correct fit. Phone contact available at order question.

Would used this site again.

grade 3.5 A=4

To perform this repair do the following:
1.) Turn off power to the dishwasher
2.) Turn off water, disconnect the water supply and drain using adj. wrench and/or nutdriver, remove any contents from inside
3.) Remove screws (2) from underside cabinet, remove kick plate from bottom by removing two (2) screws there, pull out washer gently providing slack to drain hose and water line
4.) Gently place washer on side, do not invert or lean on the front side, water may enter control panel and damage it
5.) Remove the water line from Inlet valve using adj. wrench
6.) Disconnect both wires from solenoid.
7.) There is one metal screw holding the valve in place, remove it with a nutdriver, slide valve assembly out.
8.) Remove the 90 degree brass angle fitting from old valve, this may require some effort. Using thread tape, install fitting on new valve assembly.
9.) Replace parts in reverse order, using thread tape on any additional water line fittings requiring it, restoring water and power last.
10.) Run a test wash and check for leaks.
Hope this helps, it did appear to fix my problem.

Turned off water supply. Then removed water supply line, secondary hose, and screw securing inlet valve. Valve will slide out. Removed brass elbow fitting from old valve. Applied plumbers putty to threads on both ends of elbow and attached to new valve. Installed new valve and secured with screw. Re-attached hose and supply line. Turned water supply back on and checked for leaks.

I turned off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher.
I also shut off the water inlet valve to the feed line.
Disconnected the electrical and conduit. Disconnected the drain line and the water feed line to the inlet valve. I made sure I had old towels under the unit to catch any water flowing out of the pipes once disconnected.
I removed two screws holding the dishwasher up under the counter edge.
Then the dishwasher rolled out of from under the counter, I rolled it over to an area where I had laid down a moving blanket.
I noticed the new counterbalance "ropes and pulleys" were a bit different design than the originals so I made sure the new style pulleys would fit and they did. I replaced both sides pulleys and link ropes, then I connected the spring to the rope and pulled the spring back to connect to the rear of the frame of the dishwasher. Door fixed!
The inlet valve is a piece of cake, just removed one screw and the electrical connector and replaced, reversing the process.
I cleaned up under the counter where the dishwasher mounts and also shot some "Foam" into some areas where I think sounds might have been leaking into the living room on the back side of the counter, I figured it could not hurt to seal off those areas to prevent as much sound as possible from entering the other living space. I reversed the process installing the dishwasher and then ran a cycle making sure that no water was leaking from the inlet or the drain lines.
It all seems to be working now.
While the dishwasher was out I wanted to figure out what this "Clunk" was every time you opened the door was, turned out it was something to do with the door catching the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwashers and then it would clunk as it sprung back. I just used my hands and kinda bent the front edge of the bottom pan of the dishwasher back in and now they don't touch and the clunk is gone. So for about $60.00 in parts and 1.5 hours of my time the dishwasher is back in operation.

The repair was easy in that there were no surprises due to the video. The extra time was due to not being able to pull the appliance out for easy access. It was great to have the percentage for solving the problem identified on the website.