Surface Burner - 8 Inch - 2600W WP660533

One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.

This was the second repair of the same problem. I realized this time that there was a poor connection between the burner and the receptacle causing a arch, creating extra heat and burning out the receptacle.
All that I had to do was to cut two wires to the existing receptacle assembly and use the wire nuts to connect the new assembly and one philips screw holds it in place...The kit required me to assemble it first and there were four items to put together. No problem....

I received my ordered in less than a week. It was great. The day I got them I remove the old burners and replaced them with the new ones. It took me about 3 minutes total. I was then able to cook my Christmas dinner with out any problems.

I followed the instructions on removing the existing burner, recepticle, and section of wire. Then followed same instructions for reinstalling above new parts. The instructions were simple and straight forward. The only gluich was that I had to drill out the rivets holding in the old hold down clips. I drilled these out with an 1/8" bit on the burner side off the opening.

It was very easy, the element is held in place by a point that protrudes from the element's frame through a hole in the stove top. This hole is located directly across from the electrical socket your bheating element plugs into, under the stove top. Push the heating element in towards the socket and the heating element can now be lifted up and out of the burner tray. Remove the burner's reflector tray. Remove the single screw securing the elements electrical socket to the stove top. Lift the stove top up and secure. Remove socket and cut wires about 4 inces from the old socket. place shrink wrap over each wire and wire nut new socket to existing wires. place shrink wrap over wire nuts and heat to secure. reverse proceedure and test.

tries brazing ends back onto posts...it did work but still not as good as I wanted. Bit the bullet for 100.00 and bought 2 new burners and drip pans. Only regret was not buying the two smaller burners with pans. Smaller ones still work but the new ones work like brand new and an added benefit is they make the stove look brand new!! Very pleased with decision to buy!

Turn the power off to the unit. Remove the cold element by lifting up and pulling out. Remove the drip pan. Remove the element plug screw and pull the plug up and out of the socket. Cut the leads to the plug as close to the plug end as possible to allow enough wire to splice the new plug in. Strip the insullation back 3/8" to allow for splicing. Install the shrink tube collar on the wire and place one new lead (prestripped at the factory)next to the old wire and place the wire nut provided over the bare wire ends and twist it on until it is tight. Bend the wire nut splice back over one of the leads and slide the shrink tape over it. Heat up the shrink tape with a hair dryer to make it tight over the wire nut connection. Repeat the process for the next lead. Slide the leads into the new socket. Install the socket and secure the the new screw provided. Reinstall the drip pan and plug in the heat element. Follow the same procedure for each element socket replaced. Turn the power back on.

two Phillips head screws hold the oven unit in. It culls out and the wires just disconnect. Reinstall in reverse and test.. The burner socket I cut the wires from the old socket and splice the new pigtails onto the existing wires and install the socket. The instructions in the package are good for people that aren't used to doing repairs.

Followed instructions from previous repair story!!
Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!
I want to thank the previous posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!