Burner Head Cap with Spark Electrode WP3412D024-09

There were no flames when I turned the oven on, so the first thing I did was narrow down the problem through the process of elimination. It was really a fairly simple system to work on. I verified that it was getting power to the hot surface igniter (which it was). You can check this visibly by seeing if it heats up and glows, but that is not enough. You also have to make sure the igniter is drawing enough amps to open the oven safety valve ( about 3-3.5 amps). You do this by leaving everything connected and turning the oven on as normal. You clamp the Amp Meter (a clamp style Amp Meter works best)to the wires going into the Hot Surface Igniter and checking amperage. If the amperage is to low then the igniter is not pulling enough to open the valve and you should replace it. If the amperage is as it should be then the valve is not opening. The next thing is to turn off the gas to the appliance and unplug the electricity before starting any other work. I removed the oven racks and bottom decking out of the way so I would have room to work. I removed the oven burner to get to the oven safety valve, which is held in by two screws. I disconnected the gas line coming in to the valve using an adjustable wrench, removed the two wires (noting their position) and removed the two screws with a phillips head screwdriver. I replaced the valve with a new one and hooked everything back up in reverse order. That was all there was to it. I also replaced a couple of burners on the top of the stove while I was at it, only because they were difficult to light sometimes. They simply twist out counterclockwise and have two wires that you can't get confused because they have different size connectors and will only go on one way. This 10 year old stove now works like a new one.

Make a quarter turn counterclockwise, disengage a burner head, disconnect 2 wires, connect to a new head, install turn clockwise.

That's it!

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

I first had to cut off electrical power to the stove top and then remove a little built up grease around the seams where the parts fit together. I then removed the burner head by twisting about 30 degrees and lifting. I then disconnected the spark ignighter wire, ( a slide on spade). This exposed the two screws that hold the drip pan in place. I had to use a drill to remove the screws on the two front burners because they were so rusty, just a minor problem. I then removed the drip pan. Cleaned a few years of buildup cooking splashes next, then installed new seal tape for gaskets and reversed the process. $250 in parts and 30 minutes work saved buying a $1300 cook top,

The old burner head had corroded allowing gas to come out at the bottom. The actual replacement is just turning the head, lifting it out, transferring two wires with slip-on connectors from the old burner to the new one, and dropping the new one in place. Most of the time was spent sanding away corroded metal on the base to make a good fit. The information on the burner head says that the company has decided not to use a gasket under the head. I suggest that was a bad decision.

Counterclockwise turn old burner to remove. Unplug attachment wires. Replug wires place back in place turn clockwise. Done.

Replaced with a new one.

The burner was leaking a rust colored dirt and shooting flames all over the place. The top came off and I needed channel-locks to get the bottom half out. The wires were hard to get off and I broke one connector off so I soldered the wire on to the new part which fit the stove top perfectly. It still took less than a half hour to replace. Without problems it should take about 5 minutes.