Washer Injector Hose w/Air Gap WP206680

Removed the two bottom screws holding on the front panel and removed panel. Removed two screws holding on the top lid and removed lid. Loosened clamp on injection hose at water valve and pulled hose from valve. Twisted other end of injection line counter-clockwise to loosen from tub and removed line. Installed new line in reverse order, but left off front cover to watch for leaks. Ran washer while watching through opening in front. When I confirmed no leaks, then replaced front cover.

I had trouble initially because I could see that the inside of the machine was wet but could not get it to leak while I was watching. Finally while the machine was filling I put my hand over the fill opening in the tub and then I got plenty of water coming from the air gap in the injector hose. When I dismantled the injector hose and air gap, I could see that the rubber injector vale was bad. I orgered both a rubber injector and injector hose with air gap. I did this because I couldn't determine if the assembly came with the injector valve. It did so I returned the injector valve.
A word of caution. When I started filling the machine water gushed out the air gap. With a little experimenting with the air gap and injector valve, I determined the rubber injector valve was in backward. After reversing the vale, everything worked fine. This was a sealed package so I would have to say this came from the manufacturer wrong.

You can read elsewhere about how to open an old Maytag top-load washer. Two screws in the front holding the front on, and two screws underneath the 'ceiling'. That exposes the injector hose assembly.

Disassembly of old parts is a breeze. A challenge is that the new included plastic mount for the injector doesn't match the original. What I call is the mount, partselect.com calls an "injector sleeve bracket". In hindsight, I could have/should have just used the old mount again. My solution was to file a groove on the underside of the new mount, and use that as a guide for a wire tie that wraps around the mount and the L-bracket coming off of the side of the washer. I suspect that vibration and age will do in the wire tie in a couple of years. I plan to replace it with a hose clamp before that happens.

My understanding is that they really don't make washers like this anymore - the A512 - so I'm very happy to fork over a few dollars in order to keep this one running. We're in our 25th year of operating this one. Every additional year is a bonus!

Removed the two phillips screws from the bottom front of the machine. Removed the two bolts under the front lip of the top. Raised the lid and propped it up. Disconnected the hose clamp attaching the water fill tube to the valve assembly. Removed the bolt holding the plastic injector to the edge of side panel. Twisted and removed the fill tube from the tub rim. Re-installed new assembly in reverse and all bolts.

This was a Maytag A490 of indeterminate age. Unscrewed 2 lower screws holding on front cover, removed cover. Used socket wrench to remove 2 screws holding top cover down, lifted top cover, removed old injector, replaced. The new injector didn't exactly match the shape of the old one and the lid wouldn't close. So I had to cut off some of the plastic shroud that came on the new one (didn't cut easily but I used a utility knife - BE CAREFUL). Afterwards, went in smoothly.

I identified all the parts and ordered them. The injector hose kit was the assembly I needed to fix the leak. Looking at the comments from others that had previously made a similar repair, I decided to fab an angle bracket to hold the injector and the installation went very smoothly! All parts fit and the washer will hopefuly give us a few more years on top of the 25 already in service.

This is for replacement of the complete injector hose kit, item number PS11738785. (1) Run spin cycle to drain any water from the tub. (2) Unplug machine and pull out from wall about 6". It is not necessary to disconnect supply or drain hoses from the wall. (3) Remove two screws at bottom of front panel, swing panel out until it comes loose at the top; set aside. (4)Disconnect the top end of the fabric softener tube from the filler port in the lid. If you let this drop, a small amount of water may drain out. (5) Remove two screws inside the top front corners holding the top to the sides. Raise the top panel on its rear hinges; it will lean back out of the way and remain attached. You can now see the s-shaped injector hose that connects the water valve to the top of the tub, with a small clear plastic box in the middle that contains the air gap tube. You may be able to replace just the small air gap tube inside that box, about 3" long, by disconnecting the front section of the hose from the plastic box - I've done that successfully several times before, but this time the upstream hose was eroded inside and still allowed leakage after replacing the air gap tube, so I ordered and replaced the whole injector hose kit. (7) Remove one screw attaching the plastic box to the side panel. (8) Disconnect the upstream end of the hose from the valve body. You may need to replace the hose clamp there, which doesn't come with the kit. (9) The downstream end of the hose is held in the top rim of the tub by a plastic end fitting; turn the entire hose assembly clockwise - toward your right - about 90 degrees, and lift it out of the hole, and discard. (10) Reverse that step with the new hose; push the fitting down into the hole [it only fits one way, like a car's radiator cap] and rotate the assembly counter-clockwise. (11) Clamp the upstream end of the hose to the valve body, do not over-tighten and cut the hose. (12) Fasten the plastic box to the top of the side panel with the screw from step 7. (13) Lower the top panel into place and reattach the fabric softener hose to the filler port. (14) Plug in and run a brief fill cycle to test for leaks. If OK, run spin cycle to dump water and reduce weight of machine. (15) Reattach top panel at top two corners. (16) Reinstall front panel; holding the bottom out at a 45 degree angle, slide the top brackets under the front edge of the top panel, swing down, reinstall two screws at the bottom corners.

Once i figured out where it was leaking from(injector hose) it was extremely easy to fix. The best way was 2 screws on front bottom, remove the front panel. Then two bolts that held the top down, lift up and the injector hose assembly was to the left in the back. It took only about 5 min. to completely replace. An extremely easy proccess.

After reading about previous repairs on PartSelect, I figured there was a small hole in the Injector Hose. Ordering online was simple. It took three days to arrive since we really live in the boonies. It was easy to take the defective part off and put the new hose on. Except when the washer began to load, water sprayed everywhere! Huh? I took apart the Air Gap and determined that the one-way valve was put in on the wrong side of the apparatus. It was easy to put it back together right, however, and it worked fine thereafter. Seemed to have been a QC problem when they were assembled. It is working properly now.

Instead of replacing one damage hose, i decided to replace the whole piece. the second hose was old and i figure ill just take care of one problem now and prevent a future problem. it was as simple and quick, save me some money from hiring a repair man. it was also a learning experience.