Circulation Pump and Motor Assembly W10782773

SAFTY: Turn water off. Flip the circuit breaker.
PREPARE FOR REMOVAL: Unscrew / Remove kickplate. Disconnected water connect just behind the kickplate. Be ready with a couple of dishtowels. Pull the door down and remove any screws that go into the under part of your counter top. Jack the front legs screw down.
REMOVE: Gently pull the Dishwasher from under counter. Push the insulation flat against the side of the dishwasher about every six inches that you pull the dishwasher out to prevent it from snaggin on the cabinet face edges. Remove the baskets and spray arms. Careful not to damage the heating element.
NOTE: Here I noticed that the guy who installed the dishwasher kinked the copper line limiting the water into to my dishwasher. So my circulation pump/motor was probably running dry. I replaced with a flex type "dishwasher" hose that will easily coil up behind / underneath without kinking when I push back in. DO THE REPAIR RIGHT - DO IT YOURSELF!
REPAIR: I gently laid the dishwasher on it's side (cardboard underneath). I disconnected the power - 2 wires. Then, I only disconnect one wire harness, the sump tubing and the I thought I'd better remove the impeller that the sump tubing was connected to (it was only attached with one screw). Remove the 3 plastic clips around the pump/motor. Carefully push the pump into the dishwasher. DO NOT LET THE PUMP FALL AS IT MAY DAMAGE THE HEATING ELEMENT IN THE DISHWASHER! Push the new pump/motor in place until the seal is at least flush with the bottom. I used the back of a wood spoon. Don't pull on any part of the motor from the bottom or you'll break the thin aluminum casting. Just inserting the plastic clips back in place will pull the seal flush with the bottom again.

I was lucky. I simply removed the motor/pump, replaced it with the new motor/pump, and put everything back together in reverse. I put a little bit of silicone grease on the o-ring of the temperature probe. I happened to have some silicone grease because I also have a pool.
Done. It cost me $220 Vs. $550 quoted by Sears. That doesn't count the extra Sears would have charged my for repairing the kinked copper line. And you know they would've kinked it again. That only cost me $20 more and the flexible line couldn't have been easier to install. I could have done the whole thing for less but I opted to replace the pump/ motor together.
Getting it all done right, no leaks, no kinked line, keeping the dishwasher that matches the other appliances (VS. replacing it at $550 repair price), all less than 1/2 the price of a quoted repair - PRICELESS. - THANK YOU PART SELECT. DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with Part Select.

1, I shut off ac circuit breaker.
2.Shut off water supply valve.
3.disconnected water line from inlet valve.
4. disconnect the drainage hose.
5. have plenty of towels to mop up water.
6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub.
7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter.
8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope.
9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub.
10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.

It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp!
Left some blood there.

Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

just replace the motor unit.

I decided to proceed with repairing the dishwasher myself even though it's 18 years old and this is the first problem we've had with it. This dishwasher has worked amazingly well and matches our kitchen.
I found the Partselect website to be very easy to navigate and very happy that it had parts for my dishwasher model along with troubleshooting tips, reviews and installation videos.
I started with replacing the door gasket as it seemed quite compressed and missing part of one end. The part came quickly in just 2 days. It was an easy installation. Unfortunately, it did not fix the leak.
Next step was to turn on the dishwasher and slide my cell phone further underneath with the video on to try and catch the culprit. Water was dripping off several points but it appeared that the leak was from two or three places around the main tub bottom gasket. That gasket is not available as a separate part. so I had to order the whole pump and motor assembly. Again, the part came in two days.
This part was a bit more challenging to replace. The installation video was very helpful. I removed the old part easily. I thoroughly cleaned the gasket seat area and added a layer of silicon grease. While rubbing on the grease, I found a few corrosion pinholes in the bottom of the stainless steel gasket seat. I did not feel that they were significant enough to worry about since the new gasket should easily seal them. I turned out to be right. The biggest challenge was reinstalling the motor assembly clips. They were very tight but I eventually got them all in with the help of a small mallet.
Once reassembled, I tested the new motor assembly by just pouring water into the bottom of the dishwasher, and not turning it on. There was still a small leak further to the back of the motor assembly. Using my phone's video, I could see that the tub gasket was no longer leaking, but the Thermistor sensor was.
I could easily remove the sensor by twisting and pulling it off. The sensor was in good shape. I figured that it must be the o-ring around the sensor casuing the leak as it appeared somewhat compressed. Unfortunately, the o-ring is not sold separately from Partselect. Therefore, I took the sensor and o-ring to the local hardware store where I was able to identify a replacement o-ring for one dollar.
I reinstalled the sensor with the new o-ring and water tested again the dishwasher. No more leaks!
I ran a wash cycle and still no leaks! We have now ran several dozen cycles without any leaks. All is good! It appears that I definitely had leaks around the the main tub bottom gasket as well as the Thermistor sensor. After eighteen years of use, I feel it was still a good idea to replace the door gasket even though I could not fully verify that it was a problem.
We are now able to keep our dishwasher (hopefully for many more years) and saved significantly by doing it myself.

The repair was overall a simple one. The only difficulty I had was in seating the new motor assembly in the dishwasher bottom opening. I tried doing this with the dishwasher on its back after I made my disconnections and pulled the old assembly out; but with fighting the spring action of the door while trying to seat the seal it was a pain. It's definitely worth uprighting the dishwasher again to seat the new motor as you no longer have to fight the dishwasher door and you can get in with both hands to overcome the seal friction. I used silicone lube but that seal is still pretty tough. Although there was nothing wrong with it I changed the water supply hose as well just as a precaution as my unit was 12 years old.

Just start to look at all the different videos on the problems that can be making that loud sound and just have the feeling for the circulation pump but then it seems that changing the circulation pump and motor assembly was easier and more logic for a 13 year old appliance. Just start and went that way ordering the part and following all the video instructions that came to be easier than I thought. Thank you

followed the videos, it was easy. Like the old machine with the shorter cycles so keeping it going is important

First watched the video!
1. Shut off breaker. 2. Shut off water inlet and disconnected the input and output lines. 3. Removed the upper and lower dish trays as shown in videos.
4. Disconnected hardwired electrical connections. 5. Lowered the dishwasher with adjusting feet. 6. Removed dishwasher onto a 2mm appliance floor protection mat. 7. Removed the motor housing per the video. 8. It was easier to lay dishwasher on its back to remove the old and insert the new motor. 9. Also installed new drain motor per video. 10. Difficulty pressing the motor with new seal into the housing. Used small amount of food grade synthetic grease to assist - it did help and no leaks. 11. Would recommend taking photos of all electrical connections before starting the removal process, so there is not wire color mix up. 12. After reinstalling the dishwasher, tried to install a new door gasket W10542314, but this was very difficult and leaked drips on one side. I followed the video, but it did not easily push in by hand. After multiple tries, I cleaned the old seal and reinstalled it just as the video shows - no leaks after several runs.
All in all, Appliance Parts has always supplied perfect fitting parts, so I think the specs from the manufacture may be off or the old style for our 24-year-old dishwasher is no longer available. Love the help videos and wouldn't try an appliance repair without watching them.

Disconnected electrical/water connection
. Disconnected interior components
Pulled machine out/laid on side
Disconnected - hose/electricals/drain pump
Removed clips
Popped out circulation pump/motor assembly
Installed new circulation/pump assembly/clips
Reconnected - hose/electricals/drain pump/interior components
Reconnected electrical/water connection