The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This burner cap is for your gas range, and acts as a cover for the burner head. It is black in color and just over 3 inches in diameter. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part ...
This is a burner cap for your gas range. The cap acts as a cover for the burner head. If your old burner cap is damaged or missing, this is the part that will replace it. The cap is black in color and...
The rubber bumper sits between the burner and the range itself to ensure the burners do not scrape the stove top. This OEM replacement bumper is sourced directly from the manufacturer, and is sold individually.
This OEM-compatible screw is designed for use with many GE dishwashers. Measuring 8-16 HXW and 1/2" in length, this stainless steel screw secures the middle spray arm hub to the upper rack assembly, e...
Upgrade your oven’s cooking performance with this sturdy metal rack, designed to fit select gas ranges and ovens. Measuring approximately 23.75 inches long by 16.25 inches wide, it offers a spacious a...
If your gas burner isn’t heating evenly or looks worn out, this replacement burner head might be just what you need. It’s about 3.5 inches wide, made of sturdy metal with a silver finish, and rated at...
Fix a freezer door that won’t close properly with this genuine spring hinge mullion. It keeps the flipper seal tight, preventing warm air from entering and helping maintain the right temperature. If y...
This is a replacement set screw for your refrigerator door. The set screw attaches the door handle to the stud on the refrigerator door. The screw is approximately ¼ of an inch in length and unlike so...
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
