The run capacitor is attached to the compressor. This part is 120 volts and 15 mfd. The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things froze...
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This is a genuine part. The handle mounting shoulder screw (no.10 ab) is made for use with many refrigerators. The metal screw helps to fasten the handle assembly to the outer do...
I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.
Opened mailer and bag and place the drain plug into the drain. fit perfectly. In fact it is better than the one lost since the original needed a screwdriver or tool to remove the plug. This one has a flang or finger turner on it so that it can be removed. Also, does not interfere with items in bottom of freezer.
I recommend completing steps 1-3 before purchasing your part, so as to avoid my mistakes.
1) Unplug the freezer and clear whatever is currently in the door. This fix is fast enough you don't need to empty the whole freezer.
2) Use a socket wrench to remove the two bolts holding the top hinge to the freezer. Once they're off, the hinge can pulled up and off.
3) Lift the door free from the bottom hinge. Important Note! Check that it's the door closing cam that's broken, and not, for example, the bearing that seats with the door cam that is listed on the freezer part of the schematic, and not the door part. If you're a smarty pants, you order(ed) the right part. If you're me, you continue with this tutorial but still need to order another part to complete the fix. Don't be like me.
4) Using your philips-head screwdriver, remove the screw holding the remnants of the old door cam to the bottom of the door. Pull out the old cam and insert the new one. Rescrew.
5) Grab your extra person put of your toolbox and have them help you guide the door back onto the bottom hinge. The door is not heavy but no one wants to play blind Battleship while your freezer contents actively defrost.
6) Stick the top hinge back into place and reattach the bolts.
7) PLUG YOUR FREEZER BACK IN! And also check that the door works now.