These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
This pump is intended for use with washing machines that do not have belts. This drain pump has two ports for water to pass through: a large one, and a smaller one.
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
Also known as an O-Ring. This black o-ring seal is three inches in diameter.
$14.07
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Questions And Answers for WTW5700SW0
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Bertrand
August 10, 2021
The washer is not spin drying the clothes. Clothes are remaining soaked.
For model number WTW5700SW0
Hello Bertrand, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking to see if the tub is getting up to speed and spinning fast enough to spin the water from the Clothes. If the Tub is spinning normally, the pump may not be pumping the water out properly for the tub to spin dry the clothes. We hope this helps!
Washer stops during wash cycle but if I open and close the lid it will start to work again.
For model number WTW5700SW0
Hello Dawn, thank you for your inquiry. We have researched your model and found that you may need to replace the lid switch, part number PS11745957. This part needs replacement when the washer stops mid-cycle. If that does not help, you may need to replace the lid hinge, part number PS11746862. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
The water is running straight through the washer instead of filling the tub when it is started. We were able to turn the dial to a spin cycle and spin the water out of the wet clothes and try it again and it worked a time or two, but now it’s not doing that anymore. Suggestions? Do I need to replace that same pump part?
For model number WTW5700SW0
Hi Audrey, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you have provided, the issue is not with the drain pump, it could be with the washer's timer, part number PS11746778. It controls the electrical components and the duration of the washer's cycles. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
This Whirlpool washer continues to fill with water even though the water level in the tub has surpassed the normal load level for that setting. Also the Load Size switch is more difficult to turn. What do you recommend to rectify these problems?
For model number WTW5700SW0
Hello Len, Thank you for contacting us. We would recommend checking the water inlet valve and the water level switch which also controls the load size. You can test both parts with a multimeter and also check for any clogs or visible damage. Good luck with your repair.
The washing machine is not draining fully and it smells like there is a burning smell. It stopped mid spin cycle.
For model number WTW5700SW0
Hi Italia, thank you for getting in touch. We would recommend checking the drain pump, part number PS11741239. If the pump is seized, clogged, or its motor is failing, it cannot remove water, causing the machine to stop mid-cycle. The strain on the pump motor or a slipping pump belt creates the burning smell. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this helps.
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
The hardest part of this job was pulling the machine away from the wall so the hoses could be disconnected and the machine flipped onto it's back. Putting the machine on it's back does two things. It drains the water left in the bottom of the tub so it won't pour out onto the motor when the old pump is removed, and gives the necessary access to the pump. Once the machine is on it's back you remove the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and disconnect the hoses. The pump is secured to the motor with a pair of spring steel retaining clips which are easily popped off by hand. Once the clips are removed, the pump is in your hand. Put the new pump in place, replace the retaining clips and hoses, and you're done. This has to have been the easiest repair I've ever done. I wish cleaning gutters was this easy.
