This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
This inlet valve assembly controls the flow of hot and cold water into your washer, ensuring the drum fills at the correct temperature during each cycle. Located at the back of the machine where the w...
Got an LG washer that needs a fix? We have the perfect solution for you! Here is our bespoke screw, made just for LG washing machines. It's crafted to meet safety and efficiency standards, ensuring a ...
Discover how you can keep your LG washer running like a breeze with our authentic LG Washer Shifter Coupling. This key component enables your washer to transition from agitation to spin cycle smoothly...
This drain pump assembly is responsible for removing water from your washer during the drain cycle. It is typically at the bottom of the washing machine and connected to the drain hose. If it is damag...
This part is the replacement switch assembly for your top-load washer. It contains the switch mechanism and the connecting wire that hooks the door latch to the electrical system of the washer. The li...
Keep your washer running smoothly with this clutch motor assembly. It helps the drum switch between washing and spinning so clothes get clean and water is removed efficiently. If your washer won’t spi...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Carmen
January 10, 2025
Selector dial not working properly going all over the place
For model number WT7900HBA
Hello Carmen, Thank you for contacting us. If the selector knob is not working correctly, then it may be an issue with the knob or the switch on the control board. Check both parts for any visible damage. We hope this helps.
Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.
raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.
