This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
This inlet valve assembly controls the flow of hot and cold water into your washer, ensuring the drum fills at the correct temperature during each cycle. Located at the back of the machine where the w...
This drain pump assembly is responsible for removing water from your washer during the drain cycle. It is typically at the bottom of the washing machine and connected to the drain hose. If it is damag...
This part is the replacement switch assembly for your top-load washer. It contains the switch mechanism and the connecting wire that hooks the door latch to the electrical system of the washer. The li...
Keep your washer running smoothly with this clutch motor assembly. It helps the drum switch between washing and spinning so clothes get clean and water is removed efficiently. If your washer won’t spi...
This lid assembly provides a secure cover for your appliance, helping maintain proper operation and safety. Built for durability and a precise fit, it restores functionality when the original lid is cracked or damaged.
$388.48
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Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.
raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.
