This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive...
This is an authentic LG water inlet valve for a top-load washer. It is designed to control the flow of water into the washer. If your washer is filling slowly, making loud noises, overflowing, or stop...
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Marshall
February 26, 2020
New motor,stator, and now clutch motor ass. Still get e-6 code
For model number WT1201CW
Hi Marshall,
Thank you for your question. The E6 error code is letting you know that you may either have a foreign object stuck between the pulsator and the drum or the motor is overheating and it needs to be cooled down. Check the drum for any foreign objects that may be interfering with the drums rotation and remove them if they are present. Once the objects have been removed, run a cycle and see if the error code reappears. If it does, the motor is overheating and you will need to let it cool for an hour. Once the motor has cooled, run a cycle. If the error code reappears, this usually indicates an issue with either the motor or the clutch. If you have already replaced these parts, you may need to have a technician check the washer to see why this is happening. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.
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Phillip
August 19, 2021
Sounds like the pump keeps running after the rinse cycle you have to unplug the machine to get it to stop what maybe the problem
For model number WT1201CW
Hi Philip,
Thank you for your question. If your pump keeps running after the rinse cycle, check and see if there is still water in the tub. If there is, then either the pump, the filter or the drain hose is clogged and they will need to be cleaned. If these parts are fine, you will need to check the electronic control board, the water level pressure switch and the water inlet valve to see which one is causing the issue. You will find the information on how to test these parts under Free Repair Help and Instant Repairman on our website. We hope this helps! Good luck with the repair!
Water wouldn’t drain removed the pump, no blockage. I ran pump in bucket of water and it pumped after a bit. Resistance across pump is 10 ohms, what should resistance be? Not sure if pump is bad or not
For model number WT1201CW
Hello Julie, thank you for contacting us. Based on our research, the ohm reading on the pump should be between 15 and 40 ohms. If the reading is less or greater than the previously described reading, then the pump is probably faulty. You may need to check the drain pump, part number PS7785119, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
Something i leaking from the middle of tub directly under middle of tub. None of the hoses are leaking.Must be a seal.
For model number WT1201CW
Hello Gary, thank you for your question. The tub seal for this unit is only available by ordering the tub assembly which is PartSelect Number PS6012656. There is also a seal on the clutch and gear shifter assembly Part #: PS11708484. We would recommend checking those parts to determine which part is leaking. I hope this helps.
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Frank
December 2, 2019
Im looking part #mef62462103 hinges for lid at the bottom and how to install.( a163 )
For model number WT1201CW
Hi Frank, thank you for your question. You would need to get two of this part: MEF62462103. There is a video on our website that you can reference on how to install the. The may not be exactly like the one you have, but it will give you a general idea on how to install it. You will find the video here: https://youtu.be/6dgVMOSu3V8. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Popped out the plastic "doors" that cover the metal actuators. Removed the metal actuators on both right and left sides of the door then unscrewed (3 screws each actuator) them from door frame. Slid the actuators out to enable the door to be removed. Unscrewed 2 screws on the top front of the washer which enabled me to angle the top of the washer to expose the screws that hold the plastic hinges. Unscrewed the hinges (2 screws each) and replaced both of the hinges (I figured I'd do both of them now so I don't have to do it again for another 15 years). Put everything back together and all works like new.
Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers 1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube) 2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate 3. Remove small bolt under cap 4. Remove bottom Tub Plate 5. Remover washer 6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench) 6a. Remove the large washer under nut NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed. 7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom. NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all 8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be. 9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way. 10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position 11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose. Almost there.... 12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate. 13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes: *Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up. *Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts *Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug *Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern. *The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight. *The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores. *I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
