This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
This drain pump is for washers. Drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
Got an LG washer that needs a fix? We have the perfect solution for you! Here is our bespoke screw, made just for LG washing machines. It's crafted to meet safety and efficiency standards, ensuring a ...
Discover how you can keep your LG washer running like a breeze with our authentic LG Washer Shifter Coupling. This key component enables your washer to transition from agitation to spin cycle smoothly...
Is your LG washing machine not working as smoothly as before? It might be time to replace the STATOR ASSEMBLY. This part provides the green light to your washer's drive motor, making sure your clothes...
Getting your LG washing machine back to its top-performing state is quicker and simpler with our genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Motor Assembly Clutch. This part steps in to switch your ...
If your washer isn’t spinning or agitating like it should, this shift actuator might be the fix. It helps switch between wash and spin modes by connecting the motor to the tub. It’s a common repair an...
$80.21
In Stock
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1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.
