This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and sho...
This Charcoal Filter traps grease from your oven's exhaust to help prevent it from entering the vent, which could cause damage over time. If the exhaust fan on your microwave is not working, you may n...
This Grease Filter is constructed of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene and is used to trap grease and help eliminate odors from the exhaust air while cooking. It attaches onto the exhaust and is rated ...
This three-terminal switch fits your microwave door. This part is mostly black in color and is about 1.5 inches with metal terminals. You might need to replace this part if your microwave is not heati...
This door interlock switch is a genuine replacement part designed for use in microwaves. It serves a critical safety function by preventing the microwave from operating when the door is open. Because ...
The light socket in your microwave houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. The light bulb will screw into it, so the light bulb will be held in place. Be very careful when installin...
$14.12
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Questions And Answers for WMH53520CS5
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Anita
March 2, 2022
I replaced the light socket, but the light burns constantly. I've removed the light because it got hot real quick even with the new part. Can you direct me to the correct part needed.Thank you
For model number WMH53520CS5
Hi Anita,
Thank you for your question. It is normal for an over the stove microwave light bulb to become hot when it is on, but if the bulbs are constantly burning out, there may be a voltage issue, a loose wiring connection, or a loose ground connection. Make sure that you are using the correct bulb for your microwave. It should be a 40 watt bulb. Check the wiring connections to the socket to see if they are secure. If they are not, you will need to secure them. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hello Mary, Thank you for your inquiry. For safety reasons, since the microwave capacitor can still store electricity even when the microwave is unplugged, it is usually advised that you discharge the capacitor before any attempt at repair. We have included a link on how to do so.
https://www.partselect.com/Microwave+discharge-capacitor+repair.htm
Remove the outer cabinet which is held in place with two screws. You will then locate the power cord which will lead you to the fuse holder and fuse. Hope this helps.
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Kevin
June 1, 2025
Im trying to find the door switch part(s)
The top of the 2 screws falls out every time the door is opened. If not put back, the microwave runs as soon as the door closes.
I don’t want to order the wrong parts. Please help me find which parts are compatible
For model number WMH53520CS5
Hi Kevin, thank you for contacting us. There are 3 door switches in your model. The one door switch is part number PS2361111, 2nd door switch is part number PS2361113, and the 3 terminal door switch is part number PS10057151. We hope that helps!
When we shut the door the microwave sounds like it’s still running what are we do?
For model number WMH53520CS5
Hello Chris, Thank you for the question. This is normally caused by a defective Door Switch. You can test each Interlock Door Switch with a multi meter to check for continuity. We hope this helps.
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.
