This 40w light bulb is a replacement bulb constructed of glass and metal. It is an easy-to-install electrical part which produces 40w of light. If the bulb won't light up then it may be broken and sho...
This Grease Filter is constructed of Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene and is used to trap grease and help eliminate odors from the exhaust air while cooking. It attaches onto the exhaust and is rated ...
This three-terminal switch fits your microwave door. This part is mostly black in color and is about 1.5 inches with metal terminals. You might need to replace this part if your microwave is not heati...
This door interlock switch is a genuine replacement part designed for use in microwaves. It serves a critical safety function by preventing the microwave from operating when the door is open. Because ...
The light socket in your microwave houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. The light bulb will screw into it, so the light bulb will be held in place. Be very careful when installin...
$14.77
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Questions And Answers for WMH31017FS0
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Amy
December 15, 2019
Microwave bulb would sometimes work, sometimes not. When it doesn't, i get a "door" message on display. Often, just jiggling the microwave would turn light back on. This has increased in frequency, so that now light won't come on at all. I tried replacing the bulb - didn't seem to make difference. Bulb is fine, still reading "door", tried plugging into a different 3 prong outlet....nothing seems to help. what could it be?
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello Amy, thank you for your question. This sounds like an issue with the door switches, which are PartSelect Number: PS2361111, PartSelect Number: PS2361113, and PartSelect Number: PS10057151. We would recommend testing these parts. Here is a link on how to test those parts.
https://www.partselect.com/Microwave+test-door-switch+repair.htm
I hope this helps!
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Colleen
March 9, 2020
The over the range lamp went out - literally “popped” and out and we had to remove the remaining socket - replaced the lamp- light will not work now - what else might we need to replace?
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello Colleen, thank you for your question. You may need to replace the Socket itself. Here is the part information for that piece. I hope this helps.
When changing the above range light, it will no longer go off. Is this an issue with the bulb or some other problem?
For model number YWMH31017FS0
Hi David, thank you for your inquiry. Check what type of bulb you installed. If you used a non-compatible or non-dimmable light bulb, Triac circuits on the board leak a small amount of phantom voltage that is not enough to power an incandescent bulb but is more than enough to keep light bulb dimly lit or fully on. The compatible light bulb for your microwave is part number PS2376034. If the light is not the issue, you will need to replace the control board, part number PS16620391, to fix the issue. Glad to be of help!
The light underneath the microwave burns out so fast and gets too hot. What type of LED bulb will work for this model? Or where can I order an LED bulb from?
For model number WMH31017FS0
Hello Moriah, thank you for reaching out. The compatible light bulb for your model is listed on our site with part number PS2376034. It is a halogen light bulb. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week!
Hello Al and thanks for writing.
Sounds like a stuck door switch # PS2361111 & # PS2361113 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. It is recommended to replace both parts at the same time. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
The nightmare was that this microwave is installed under the cabinet....in order to get to the light bulb I had to pull out my stove then squeeze into the space between the stove and counter....my old microwave light bult was much easier to change.....Shame on Whirlpool for making this so difficult.....must be a better way to cover the light bulb so that we do not need a screwdriver to remove the door to get to the light bulb
Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.
