WM3998HBA LG Washer - Instructions

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

Followed this video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g
The video was very good. Watch, stop, follow steps when doing the disassembly

Removing the tub from the bearings was difficult, use penetrating oil, and have someone wail on the drum shaft (bolt inserted). The toughest part was getting the old bearings out of the drum. You spend a bunch of effort to wail on a punch that is trying to push on a bearing. Felt like I was gonna ruin the tub half. Putting the new ones in also felt overly difficult but, that is how bearings go. The teardown and rebuild was easy and kind of fun.

Removed items step by step in sequence as per video to get to baskets . Knocked out bearings and gasket seal. Replaced new parts and in reverse reassembled as per video. Very difficult without video to follow. My bearings were easy to remove but some are frozen in so will need oil ,bars or pipe to fit opening to drive out old bearings. Use camera and notes of sequence to aid in reinstall. Separate and mark fasteners as removed. Note : Was initially told by appl Insurance service person my bearings were bad because when attempting to spin a noise was heard and this not covered by plan ,but I found the motor position sensor had failed by testing it with multimeter which is a low priced part and easily accessable from back. Water hose screens partially clogged also. Canceled Appl service contract.

Slide out double stack unit, take the back off, stand on my head and reach in to remove hose clamo off pump hose. slide new hose on and clamp, but back on, and slide washer/dryer stack back in to place.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Took off top of washer to get access to connector nozzle, which is on top front of washer rubber boot. removed old nozzle, installed new one. Easy peasy

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

You have to take the back plate off the machine.The hose is all the way up front on the bottom right hand side.It has a spring clamp on it.You have to turn the hose to reach the clamp.After that the job isn't that bad.

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

pretty straight forward repair,lots & lots of parts to clean :-)

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Contacted LG customer service, not much help there. Watched a very helpful Utube video on how to find and repair the leak. The video suggested that the most common leak is in the drain hose with bellows. Removed the rear panel and removed the bellows unit using pliers for the clamps and screwdriver for the bellows part. This was pretty easy. The rubber bellows was leaking in the exact same place as the youtube video showed. This is a Design Flaw that LG needs to fix. Ordered the new part and installed the bellows portion of the part first, as the angle for that installation needs to be correct. Then attempted to install the end of the hose (very inaccesible) to the pump drain. Very difficult to position the factory supplied spring clamp with pliers so I purchased a screw-type clamp (using the nut-driver rather than a screw-driver to tighten the clamp was helpful) at the local hardware store and that made my job much easier. Note: My unit is mounted on a pedestal, so it was a little easier to access the part location (about one foot off the floor, rather than at floor level), but it may be that the part should be replaced from the bottom of the unit, which would make it much easier to access. Then I installed the other end of the hose to the drain line using a screw-type clamp. I am 69 years old, and not that flexible anymore, so getting down on the floor to reach inside the unit was difficult. You need patience to do this job and you have to make sure all the clamps are properly installed so you don't start the machine up and end up with another leak. For me, this process was difficult and took more than two hours to complete. Limited access to the area made it more difficult and I hate the factory clamps they use. Overall, the repair costs about $25, compared to the $125 just to come look at the machine, then more money to fix the unit. It was satisfying to complete the repair for a small amount of money, but not sure it was worth the aggravation.

Followed the manufacturers instructions to disassemble the washer from the top. There was a video on youtube of a guy who was able to replace his bellows hose from the back, but maybe my arms weren't long enough, I couldn't reach all the way to the front. The washer was pretty easy to take apart, except for taking off the top, where there were 2 extra screws not mentioned in the instructions. Replacing the part was really easy. HERE'S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART: LG DOESN'T MENTION IT IS REALLY HARD TO GET THE CLAMP ASSEMBLY BACK ON THE GASKET WITHOUT A SPECIAL TOOL. You can buy the special LG tool, or you can do what I did (and others on the internet) and buy an $8 "Brake spring spreader" tool at your local auto parts store. Repair was a success. No more water leaking!