If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse with a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat and fuse help prevent the dryer from overheating.
This manufacturer-certified dryer lint filter is used to collect lint during the dryer cycle, to prevent damage to the machine and to prevent lint from sticking to clothes. This model comes in white a...
This seals Includes adhesive. This part helps seal the drum to prevent hot air from escaping.
$82.49
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Questions And Answers for WGD4815EW0
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Gilbert
January 8, 2023
Dryer makes a loud banging, squealing noise while running.
What are the probable causes?
For model number WGD4815EW0
Hello Gilbert, thank you for contacting us. There are several possible reasons that a dryer might make a loud, banging, or squealing noise while running. Some of the most common causes include:
1. Worn drum bearings: If the bearings that support the drum are worn out, they can cause the drum to make a loud, squealing noise as it turns.
2. Loose drum: If the drum is not properly secured, it can bounce around inside the dryer and make a loud banging noise.
3. Obstructed exhaust (Rare): If the dryer's exhaust is obstructed or restricted in some way, it can cause the dryer to make a loud banging noise as it struggles to vent hot air.
4. Worn-out drive belt: The drive belt is responsible for turning the dryer drum. If it is worn out or damaged, it can cause the dryer to make a loud squealing noise.
5. Debris caught in the dryer: If there is debris caught in the dryer, such as coins or other small objects, it can cause the dryer to make a loud banging noise.
The most likely solution to the problem is replacing the maintenance kit, part number PS373087. The kit includes the drum belt, drum support rollers, one idler pulley, four tri-rings, and one clip. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Hi Kathleen, thank you for reaching out. We have found that the timer knob is not sold individually. All the knobs come as a kit, part number PS10067044. We hope this information is useful!
Hello Robert, Thank you for your question. When you are experiencing an issue like this there are a few parts that you will have to test to determine what is causing your issue. For all these parts you can test them with a multi meter. First you will have to test your dryer cycling thermostat, Part number: PS11741405 and thermal fuse, Part number: PS11741460 to make sure they are all functioning correctly. After that you will want to test these parts, your m series coils, igniter itself, Part number: PS11723181 (for both parts) or your radiant flame sensor, Part Number: PS11741429. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair!
Hello Bertha, thank you for your question. The knob, part number PS10067044, will fit your model. The knob fits into a d-shaped shaft, part number PS11746209. The shaft will also need to be replaced if it is broken. If you have any follow-up queries, please reach out to customer service. We are available seven days a week. Glad to be of help!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
![](https://partselectca-dsfph5cffxaaesb6.z01.azurefd.net/346995-1-S-Whirlpool-341241-Multi-Rib-Belt-92-1-4-amp-quot.jpg "Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" – Part Number: 341241")