This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$22.58
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This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$15.95
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This temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This oven temperature sensor, for ranges, works together with the oven control board to measure and regulate the oven temperatur...
$108.70
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This 6-inch, 1200-watt radiant surface heating element is a genuine replacement part designed for select ranges. It supplies consistent heat to the designated cooking zone on the stovetop, ensuring ev...
$217.02
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$26.58
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The light socket on your electric range connects the power source to the light bulb. If your oven light is malfunctioning, you may need to replace the light socket. The light socket is located in the ...
$87.79
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If your stove burner won’t heat up, stays on high, or won’t adjust, this switch might be the fix. It controls the heat for 6-inch electric burners and fits many Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid range...
$73.53
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Sold Individually. As the broiler drawer slides back and forth, these glides prevent metal-to-metal contact.
$14.07
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Questions And Answers for WFE371LVB0
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Lorrie
December 8, 2024
Oven doesn't bake hot enough. Broiler is fine. So far I've replaced bake element and oven sensor purchased from PartSelect. Problem persists. I noticed there are 2 burn spots when back cover is off. Both are little open half circles with wires going to them. Not sure what they are. One on each side right in center. Right one is above and to the right of the safety thermostat control part. Looks like insulation is burned dark brown. I'm wondering if I have bigger problem than replacing parts. Suggestions appreciated.
For model number WFE371LVB0
Hi Lorrie,
Thank you for your question. It sounds like you may be referring to the terminal block. Wires are attached to it that go to the surface elements and the oven. If the wires show signs of scorching or burn marks they should be replaced. If the oven will not heat the issue is likely the wires or an issue with the electronic control board. We hope this helps!
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
Thermal switch is integral to element and can not be changed, must replace entire element.
Turn off power. Removed front two screws above oven door jamb and lifted the top. Removed the bracket that holds the element against the glass top and removed the element. Moved brackets from old element to new one, aligning to same numerical position and then moved wiring to new element. Slide new element under bracket and reinstalled single screw. Replaced top and screwed down. Turn on power and test .