This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside ...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. This part is sold separ...
This thermostat may differ in appearance, but functions the same as the original part. This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating.
This idler pulley assembly includes the pulley and bracket, ensuring proper tension on the dryer drive belt for smooth drum rotation. Compatible with several Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, A...
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
The blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermostats, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over ...
Ensure your dryer operates smoothly with this replacement door catch, which helps keep the door firmly closed throughout each cycle. It’s compatible with various models and replaces older versions. Co...
$26.57
In Stock
Questions And Answers for WED8000DW4
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
13 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
2
3
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Dave
March 18, 2020
How to change the dryer belt from start to finish.
For model number WED8000DW4
Hello Dave, thank you for your question. We have an installation video for the repair kit on the dryer which is PS373088. This would include information on replacing that belt. Please see the related part below.
Hello Tyson, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Thermal Fuse, PartSelect Number PS11766766 with a multi meter to check for continuity. If tripped it may cut power to the appliance. We hope this helps.
i have a whirlpool cabrio dryer that will power up but will not start. i ahve replaced the thermal fuse and checked continuity on the heater coil as well as the other sensor all them are good . i checked the door switch and it is operating as well. i pulled the error codes and got E4 and F4 low power and i checked the wall plug and its good. when i mash the start button the computer board clicks and thats it nothing else. can you help ??
For model number WED8000DW4
Hello Steven, thank you for contacting us. We would recommend performing a hard reset on the dryer by unplugging it for 10 minutes and reconnecting it. If this does not help, the issue is probably related to the power cord, PS407504, and the control board, part number PS12347620. We suggest checking these parts with a multimeter to pinpoint the fault. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Hello and thank you for writing.
F4 E1 Error Code
Power unit down by turning off the circuit breaker or unplugging for one (1) minute. Power unit up by reconnecting power. Restart a new cycle. Monitor the washer for one (1) minute to ensure the error code does not display again.
Washer Error Code E1 means LONG DRAIN TIME. When your Whirlpool washer goes into drain mode and the drain time is past 8 minutes and not reaching the reset level in the pressure sensor then the valves in the drain are turned off and the drain pump will cease to pump out the water. This could indicate a faulty or clogged pump. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Matthew
May 27, 2022
Hello,the machine has power but fails to start a cycle after a few seconds of starting. I am getting F4 E4 in diagnostic mode.
For model number WED8000DW4
Hello Matthew, thank you for writing. An F4 E4 (Low or No Line Voltage) Diagnostic code indicates that there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. Touch any pad to clear the code from the display and return to the estimated time remaining. We hope this helps.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
2
3
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.
I purchased the dryer repair kit with the drum belt, wheels and idler pulley. I watched the instructional videos online and it seemed fairly straight forward. Breaking down the dryer and replacing the pulleys was easy enough. My problem began when I tried to feed the drum belt around the idler pulley. After finishing the job, the dryer would not turn and the sensor light stayed on. I thought something else was broken with the dryer and spent hours trouble shooting other problems that I was having. Finally I figured out that the drum belt was not installed correctly around the idler pulley. However, I could not get it properly installed from the front of the machine so I tried from the rear still with no avail. I finally had to fish the old belt out of the garbage can that I had thrown away earlier. I lined up the old belt with the new one in the kit and discovered that the new belt was much smaller, so I put the old one back on the drum. Here's the lesson I learned...make sure the belts are the same size before attempting to install. The old idler was responsible for the squeaking and that stopped but I am still using the same old drum belt. Hope it lasts.