WD100CV LG Washer - Overview

Sections of the WD100CV

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Door Lid Assembly – Part Number: AGM75369502
Door Lid Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11775881
Manufacturer #: AGM75369502
$250.62
  In Stock
Bolt Assembly – Part Number: 4040FR4051C
Bolt Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3522868
Manufacturer #: 4040FR4051C
$26.22
  In Stock
HINGE – Part Number: 4774FA4016N
HINGE
PartSelect #: PS11759966
Manufacturer #: 4774FA4016N
$17.44
  In Stock
Support – Part Number: MJH40343501
Support
PartSelect #: PS3535910
Manufacturer #: MJH40343501
Have a wobbly washing machine? Here's a solution that gets you back to effortless laundry days ? the LG Washer Supporter Leg. Thoughtfully designed, this little hero does a big job. It props up your l...
$36.43
  In Stock
CONNECTOR,DRAIN HOSE – Part Number: MCD63147101
CONNECTOR,DRAIN HOSE
PartSelect #: PS11761488
Manufacturer #: MCD63147101
$36.43
  In Stock
HOSE,PUMP – Part Number: MEJ62884703
HOSE,PUMP
PartSelect #: PS11761816
Manufacturer #: MEJ62884703
$70.44
  In Stock
Spanner – Part Number: 3W20018B
Spanner
PartSelect #: PS3522783
Manufacturer #: 3W20018B
$27.61
  In Stock
Clamp – Part Number: 4861FR3068A
Clamp
PartSelect #: PS3524032
Manufacturer #: 4861FR3068A
$30.49
  In Stock
Support – Part Number: MJH40343901
Support
PartSelect #: PS3535912
Manufacturer #: MJH40343901
$36.43
  In Stock
PUMP ASSEMBLY,DRAIN – Part Number: AHA74453902
PUMP ASSEMBLY,DRAIN
PartSelect #: PS11760879
Manufacturer #: AHA74453902
$205.72
  On Order
THERMISTOR ASSEMBLY,NTC – Part Number: 6323EL2001G
THERMISTOR ASSEMBLY,NTC
PartSelect #: PS3636229
Manufacturer #: 6323EL2001G
  No Longer Available
Pressure Switch Assembly – Part Number: 6601ER1006F
Pressure Switch Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3529318
Manufacturer #: 6601ER1006F
$80.13
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for WD100CV

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Common Symptoms of the WD100CV

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Lid or door won’t close
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Leaking
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Top loading washing machine displayed "tE" error
Disconnect machine from power source. Then, disconnect any tubes from the back side (make sure you close any water valves before doing so). Then, lay the machine on its back to access the bottom of the machine. Then, locate the thermistor and replace it with the new one (the thermistor will have two screws holding it in place, simply remove the screws and replace the thermistor, then screw it back in). After the new part is installed, stand the machine back up and make sure to connect any tubing to its proper place. Done.
Parts Used:
THERMISTOR ASSEMBLY,NTC
  • Angelica from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door Latch Broke causing washer to leak - This was the fix!
Our toddler stood on the handle of the pedestal washer - broke it - but we didn't know how much of a problem this was until the washer started to leak. Well, gravity doesn't work backwards, so I started with assuming the door seal was wrong instead of any drains or hoses. Ordered this part (which was perfect by the way) and fixed it right away.

Special note: you DO NOT need additional hinges as the replacement door comes with them already. To replace the hinges, simply push them out from the back side (i.e. opposite end where they are compressed). Installing new ones is easy, almost too easy to where you think it is not enough, but if they are seated and the door operates it is fine.

Exceptionally easy fix. Was able to do it with two sleeping kids under 3 years old never waking up in less than 5 minutes. 100% satisfied.
Parts Used:
Door Lid Assembly
  • Zach from REYNOLDS, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Washer was stopping during the spin cycle and making a grinding noise.
Our Samsung HE washer started making a grinding noise and stopping at the end of the rinse/spin cycle. I had replaced the clutch and seal 2 years ago and it sounded like it was going out again, however we were not getting the gunk inside the tub like before (seal) and the machine was throwing the tE error code when it stopped which it did not do last time. According to the manual this meant a thermistor error and the solution was "Call for Service". The machine is 9 years old and way out of warranty so....uh No! I ordered the new thermistor for $15 plus shipping to correct the tE code before looking to replace the clutch again or get a new machine. The new thermistor arrived, leaned the machine on its back, unplug one connector, remove two screws and pull the old one out of it's hole, push the new one in, replace two screws and the connector and GO! Problem fixed! No tE code, no stopping, no grinding noise. As best I can tell, the old thermistor was faulting during the spin cycle and the machine went into emergency stop mode which made the grinding noise. It was not the clutch or bearing at all. Most of the repair time was moving the machine out and disconnecting lines so I could lean it onto its back. Note: If your machine is stopping before draining, it will have water inside the tub which will drain out of the hole where the thermistor goes when you pull the old one out. It has an o-ring to seal it, so just expect a little water to come out and be ready to catch all the water or put the new one in quickly.
Parts Used:
THERMISTOR ASSEMBLY,NTC
  • Mike from MANOR, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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