This washing machine door boot gasket creates a watertight seal between the drum and the door opening, preventing leaks during operation. Made from suds-resistant EPDM rubber in a silver-grey finish, ...
$134.54
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If your washer isn’t draining or you’re hearing strange noises during the cycle, this drain pump might be the fix. It’s the part that pushes water out of the drum so your laundry doesn’t sit in a pudd...
$235.00
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This washer drain pump filter, also called a fluff filter or coin trap, is designed to capture lint, small debris, and stray items before they reach the drain pump, protecting the system from clogs an...
$49.13
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This washing machine shock absorber is a genuine OEM component designed to reduce vibrations and stabilize the drum during spin cycles, ensuring smooth and quiet operation. By cushioning the tub’s mov...
$88.43
In Stock
Order within the next 1 hr and 32 mins and your part ships today!
Order within the next 1 hr and 32 mins and your part ships today!
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Ruth
September 21, 2021
Won’t spin. How do i know if it’s just the belt or something more, like the bearings? It does drain if i select “no spin”. Broke down in late 2019 and haven’t been able to get service because of pandemic restrictions in a multi-unit dwelling location.
For model number WAS20160UC
Hello Ruth, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched your model and it could also be the door latch or the drive motor and bearing kit. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, we have videos available to assist you. You can check the belt for any wear and tear. We have included links to our repair videos for similar belts to give you a general idea of how to access the belt. Hope this helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCdErcRNdhk&list=PL6BF6EBC745F058E6&index=22 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWVv1LUUGn8&list=PL6BF6EBC745F058E6&index=23
i first looked on line to see if there was a video to replace the door switch/lock mechanism. i found one for a different model and it mostly applied. the steps to complete the repair are as follows: 1. disconnect the plug, 2. open the door and remove the garter spring that holds the door seal boot onto the front of the washing machine. 3. roll the boot back to access the door lock. 4. unsnap the retaining bracket. there is limited but enough space to grab the switch. a plastic retaining bracket snaps to the back of the switch. it's a little tricky to pull the switch out but it's possible to unsnap the bracket. 5. pull the switch out of the square hole in the washer front. there aren't any screws on this model washer. the switch is held in place by a groove on one side that slips over the front and the plastic retaining bracket. 6. disconnect the electrical plug. again, there's not much space. the clip that retains the plug in on the switch and it must be pushed out of the way before the wiring plug will come out. it's tough because of the limited space. 7. pull the switch out. 8. remove the manual unlock pull rod from the old switch. install the new switch by 1. reconnecting the electric plug. 2. push the switch into the square hole on the washer front. it goes in on an angle so the groove in one side of the switch goes over the washer front. 3. reclip the plastic retaining bracket. 4. replace the manual unlock rod. this is tricky because it's all be touch. 5. replace the door seal boot. pull it over the ring on the washer front. make sure the seal is properly set in the groove around the door opening. 6. reinstall the door seal garter. this is really tough because the spring is pretty stiff and the wire will want to pull the boot from the groove. i first put the garter about 3/4 of the way around and used some spring clamps to hold it in position while i pulled the spring over the rest of the way. the spring only goes on the boot closest to the door. and that's all there is. i also ordered the "latch" but it was not needed.