TCD1870CGS (ASSEELC) LG Washer - Overview

Sections of the TCD1870CGS

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4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY – Part Number: 4581EL2002L
4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY
★★★★★
★★★★★
(14)
PartSelect #: PS17269866
Manufacturer #: 4581EL2002L
The drum support roller for your dryer holds the drum in place while the drum turns on the support wheels. The drum roller is round with a bearing in the middle and measures approximately 3 inches in ...
$182.93
  In Stock
Dryer Thermistor – Part Number: 6323EL2001B
Dryer Thermistor
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS3529026
Manufacturer #: 6323EL2001B
This thermistor is used in dryer
$95.04
  In Stock
Blower Thermostat – Part Number: 6931EL3002M
Blower Thermostat
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS8747887
Manufacturer #: 6931EL3002M
$49.68
  In Stock
Pulley Idle – Part Number: 4560EL3001A
Pulley Idle
PartSelect #: PS3523032
Manufacturer #: 4560EL3001A
Looking to extend the lifespan of your LG electric dryer? Our authentic LG Idle Pulley could be the missing piece you need! This little thing plays a big role in keeping your dryer working smoothly an...
$42.63
  In Stock
Dryer Leg – Part Number: 4778EL3001B
Dryer Leg
PartSelect #: PS3523560
Manufacturer #: 4778EL3001B
This plastic adjustable dryer leg is used to support the weight and adjust the height of your dryer to keep it level. To install the leg, tip the dryer back and screw it into the bottom of your dryer ...
$13.88
  In Stock
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit – Part Number: AGM30045804
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit
PartSelect #: PS16878105
Manufacturer #: AGM30045804
This thermistor is used in dryer
$121.00
  In Stock
Safety Switch Assembly – Part Number: EBF61496102
Safety Switch Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS16551445
Manufacturer #: EBF61496102
Take a look at this essential LG Dryer Safety Switch Assembly. A don't-miss fixture for your LG Dryer. This is more than just a part, it's a safeguard for you. If your dryer's door springs open, this ...
$56.87
  In Stock
Motor Pulley Assembly – Part Number: 4561EL3002A
Motor Pulley Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS3523033
Manufacturer #: 4561EL3002A
Looking to get your LG Dryer working like new again? Your solution could be our Motor Pulley Assembly! This central piece plays a key role by maintaining the right tension on the drive belt, allowing ...
$80.13
  In Stock
SENSOR,PRESSURE – Part Number: EBD50964602
SENSOR,PRESSURE
PartSelect #: PS7792203
Manufacturer #: EBD50964602
$26.22
  In Stock
Locker Assembly – Part Number: 4027EL1001B
Locker Assembly
PartSelect #: PS3522844
Manufacturer #: 4027EL1001B
$36.43
  In Stock
BELT,POLY V – Part Number: 4400EL2001D
BELT,POLY V
PartSelect #: PS7785075
Manufacturer #: 4400EL2001D
If your dryer drum isn’t spinning or you’re hearing squealing or thumping sounds, the belt may be worn or broken. This genuine replacement belt helps restore smooth drum rotation and proper drying. It...
$104.96
  On Order
BRACKET,BASE – Part Number: 4810EL3001B
BRACKET,BASE
PartSelect #: PS3635621
Manufacturer #: 4810EL3001B
$17.44
  On Order

Questions And Answers for TCD1870CGS

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Common Symptoms of the TCD1870CGS

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Noisy
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Not Heating
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Drum Not Spinning
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Won’t Start
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Dryer making a thumping and squealing noise when running
Had to replace front drum support rollers. Removed screws underneath top in back that held bracket that keeps top in place. Slid top towards rear and lifted up. Removed 4 screws that hold plastic front panel in place (inside..2 on each corner) Unplugged front panel electric plugs to remove panel. Opened door..removed 2 screws at bottom of door opening. Removed screws on top of front panel. Unplugged door switch plug. Removed front panel. Removed right front roller with 9/16th wrench for nut. Adjustable for back of stud. Lifted up on drum to get roller out. Reversed to install. Left roller a bit harder to get to stud. Removed and installed same as right side. Did not attempt to replace rear rollers. Have them if needed but very much more involved to replace.
Parts Used:
4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY
  • Mark from WAVERLY, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Screeching during operation
Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piece of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....
Parts Used:
4 PACK ROLLER ASSEMBLY
  • CAROL from NAMPA, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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No heat; flow-sense error diagnosed but no blockage in exhaust.
The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat and Thermistor Kit
  • Daniel from MANALAPAN, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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