T1475HGPV (ABWEVUS) LG Washer - Instructions

1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.

Popped out the plastic "doors" that cover the metal actuators. Removed the metal actuators on both right and left sides of the door then unscrewed (3 screws each actuator) them from door frame. Slid the actuators out to enable the door to be removed. Unscrewed 2 screws on the top front of the washer which enabled me to angle the top of the washer to expose the screws that hold the plastic hinges. Unscrewed the hinges (2 screws each) and replaced both of the hinges (I figured I'd do both of them now so I don't have to do it again for another 15 years). Put everything back together and all works like new.

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.

Getting the old part out was not too hard, but had a couple challenges. Watched a video from RepairClininc that detailed the process very thoroughly. Definitely use an impact gun to remove the drum nut inside the drum. My drum was stuck on the shaft pretty good. Would not lift off. Removed the rotator, stator and diverter motor on the bottom, and took out all the bolts securing the clutch. Had to use a hammer to tap the shaft out from inside the drum. Then the clutch dropped out the bottom and I was able to remove the drum. Installation went smooth. Just remember the order you took stuff off and the position of the parts. They need to go on the same or the electrical connectors won't reach.

Removed the center cover cap carefully on top of the agitator with a small screw driver. There are 3 (on mine) little slots around the edge of the bottom of the cap where it meets the agitator. Insert the small flat blade screwdriver and gently twist at each one till the cap pops loose and comes off.

There was a 10MM bolt under the cap on mine that you need to remove. I used an cordless impact driver but you could use a socket wrench as well. Remove the bolt and the agitator comes off. May take a little wiggling or it may come right off.

The teeth on the agitator were wore all the way down and gone on mine so it came off easy and this was the issue I had why it was spinning freely. I took the small flat blade screwdriver and used the edge and corner of the blade to clean the teeth on the shaft where the agitator attaches and wiped it down before installing the new part as there was quite a bit of metal shavings from the damaged part.

I just reversed the order of removal to install the new part. Took about 15 min. I ran a rinse and spin cycle to remove any additional metal shavings and to check to see if it all worked properly. THATS IT! TOO EASY!

I found the pulsator just spun freely, I determined the hole on underside should ribbed to align with the ribbed shaft. But it was wore away. I purchased the new part and replacement was simple. It slide right on and I replaced the bolt. Pulsator works great, washing again.

The teeth in the pulsator assembly where stripped out on the original plate.

Ordered the replacement and it was 1 screw to undo and pop in the new assembly. Super easy repair

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

On repair of (replacing one of the MEF62462103 hinges) the previous comments and instructions were good and fairly accurate. However, in addition to having to remove the two screws on the top front so the entire top assemble can be lifted, there are two short screws on the back of the washer towards the top on each side that need to be removed. That way you can tilt the entire top up enough to get to the two underneath phillips head screws for each hinge. It’s okay to leave all the hoses connected and good to have a second person hold the top tilted up so you can get to the hinge screws. It took about 30 minutes to change one hinge for me and my helper.

Looked on line for instructions, took my time and the repair went very easy. Just be careful not to drop screws in tub.

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.

Removed flimsy, easily breakable panels (one on each side), that cover the hinges for the top lid. Removed screws that cover the pins in the door top, that fit in the swivel. Removed broken door.

Placed pins in new door into swivel brackets, replaced covers that hold the door correctly in place. Tightened in place with screws. Pot panels back into pace to cover the swivel mechanism.

Job complete.
Sorry for the written confusion, don’ see a way to attach photos that make it simple to understand.

raised the front of washer by hand (literally) and placed two 2x4 blocks under front lip for support. reached up inside washer cabinet and unscrewed the broken leg piece upwards into the cabinet. this was the only way I could get the broken piece out without some specialized tool to reach it from the underside. replacement with the new leg was a breeze.

The instructions received from partselect.com were really good. There are two long screws located on either side of the front control panel. Simply removed the small covers to expose the two screws. Then remove both screws. At that point you can lift up (carefully) the front panel high enough to gain access underneath to remove the two Philip head screws holding the hinge. Be careful not to drop the screws down in the machine cavity. Lift out the old hinge and insert the new one. Re-install the two Phillip head screws into the new hinge. Let the front panel back down and re-install the two long screws. You’re done!