This is an authentic LG water inlet valve for a top-load washer. It is designed to control the flow of water into the washer. If your washer is filling slowly, making loud noises, overflowing, or stop...
$186.67
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This is a pulsator assembly, also known as an agitator, for your washing machine. This pulsator sits at the bottom of your washer and is what is used as the main driving force to wash your clothes. Th...
$207.89
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Is your LG washing machine's top lid not functioning correctly? Don't worry! You might just need to replace the top lid hinge. This genuine top lid hinge is crafted specifically to give your LG washin...
$17.44
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This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive...
$429.17
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This suspension assembly helps stabilize the washer drum during spin cycles, reducing vibration and noise for smooth operation. Built for strength and reliability, it restores balance when the origina...
$162.51
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We understand your need for your washing machine to work like a charm, every time. This is where our authentic LG Coupling Assembly can play a vital role. This genuine LG part ensures the spin basket ...
Getting your LG washing machine back to its top-performing state is quicker and simpler with our genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Motor Assembly Clutch. This part steps in to switch your ...
$155.97
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Questions And Answers for T1227AGPPH
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Popped out the plastic "doors" that cover the metal actuators. Removed the metal actuators on both right and left sides of the door then unscrewed (3 screws each actuator) them from door frame. Slid the actuators out to enable the door to be removed. Unscrewed 2 screws on the top front of the washer which enabled me to angle the top of the washer to expose the screws that hold the plastic hinges. Unscrewed the hinges (2 screws each) and replaced both of the hinges (I figured I'd do both of them now so I don't have to do it again for another 15 years). Put everything back together and all works like new.
I diagnosed by running a full wash. I watched it and when the water should have stopped it kept running. I unplugged the washer from the power and the water kept running. This told me the inlet valve was the issue and not an electronic issue. I stopped the water by closing the water valve manually. Replacing the inlet valve was very easy. Hardest part is moving the washer out of the laundry room. The videos online show very simple steps. Maybe 8 screws to remove and a couple of hoses and five electronic connectors. Take a photo of connectors before removing them to ensure you reconnect properly.
