This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
The filter is made of metal and is intended for use with ranges and cooktops. As per the manufacturer, this filter may be 1/2" slimmer than the original, but will still function the same.
This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a key electrical component that controls the heat output of your stovetop burners. When you turn the control knob, the switch adjusts t...
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
This hinge is located on each side of the oven door. The hinges control the rate that the oven door opens and closes, and allows the door to stay open at an angle. This hinge can be used on either the...
Sold individually. Lock washers are used with screws when vibration from an appliance may cause the screw to loosen. Lock washers are also used in the electrical components of an appliance to ensure ...
No spades or wiring come with this part. To order the spades or wiring, please research by model# of appliance.
$77.75
In Stock
Questions And Answers for S136-C
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Heather
March 2, 2022
My oven did not turn off with the oven knob i had to you the main knob to turn the oven off what would be the problem here?
For model number S136-C
Hi Heather,
Thank you for your question. If the oven was not shutting off, the issue may be with the oven control thermostat. The oven control thermostat controls the bake and broil elements. It is a temperature-controlled switch and as such will have contacts that supplies power to these elements. To verify if the oven control thermostat is working, you will need to test it for continuity with a multimeter. Set your multimeter to the Rx1 setting and touch the terminals with the probes. You should receive a reading between 1000 and 1100 ohms. If you get anything outside these readings, you will need a replacement oven control thermostat. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Ralph
December 30, 2019
Can I get a replacement for the grey oven control knob located to the left of the digital clock?
For model number S136-C
Hi Ralph, sadly the requested part is discontinued, however you can contact the manufacturer to see if they have a suggested replacement. If they can provide you with a part number feel free to contact us back to see if we have the part in stock. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
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Bill
January 30, 2020
Are there any parts available for the top burners
For model number S136-C
Hi Bill. Yes please look under the "Top Assembly" Diagram. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
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Most of the repair was obvious as I took the blower apart before ordering the parts. Unfortunately the new motor was significantly larger than the original motor so I had to um. Adjust the position of some of the other parts to fit it in. There was a sheet metal flange that was installed on the other side of the blower from the motor which was designed to focus the air flow into the blower. I used a hammer to ajust the angle of flange so it no longer extended as far into the blower housing.
It works just fine although its a bit louder than the old motor was.
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
