These agitator directional cogs are commonly referred to as dog ears. They come four to a package and are usually used with direct drive washing machines.
This coupling kit is located between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
A worn clutch can cause a slower spin speed which will leave your clothes wet after a cycle. This clutch assembly comes with brake cam driver, blue spring for large capacity washers and black spring f...
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
This white thrust spacer is made of plastic and is also commonly referred to as a retainer ring. It is used in the agitator assembly of many direct drive washing machine models. This is the retaining ...
This agitator repair kit comes with a long cam, a thrust spacer and four dogs ears (agitator cogs). This repair kit is used to move the upper agitator and it connects the base of the agitator with th...
Also known as Main Outer Tub Seal. This part helps to prevent leaking from the bottom of the tub.
$7.34
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Questions And Answers for RTW4440XQ0
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Jerry
May 20, 2022
Timer/cycle selector know broke.
For model number RTW4440XQ0
Hello Jerry, thank you for your question. Yes, we have the timer PS11750181 that is compatible. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
If I buy the inlet part, will that fix the continuous drip, Into the tub?
For model number RTW4440XQ0
Hello Peter, thank you for getting in touch. If you encounter the issue of dripping water, it is likely the water inlet valve, part number PS11749042, or a hose, part number PS11749880, connected to it is damaged. Inspect the valve housing for any cracks and the attached hoses for holes or tears and replace them if necessary. We hope this solves your problem!
My washer sounds like it's off balance, beating and banging. Can it more than likely be the springs?
For model number RTW4440XQ0
Hello Danielle, thank you for reaching out. If a suspension spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the suspension springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a suspension spring is broken, replace it with part number PS11743345. If the issue still remains, we would suggest checking the leveling legs, part number PS11747965, and suspension pads, part number PS334456. We hope this information is useful!
WHEN THIS WASHER IS SUPPOSED TO START THE SPIN CYCLE IT DOES NOT KICK IN UNTIL I OPEN THE LID AND MOVE THE TUB BACK AND FORTH.THEN i CAN HEAR THE CLICK AS IT KICKS IN WHEN I CLOSE THE LID.OTHER THAN THAT IT FUNCTIONS CORRECTLY IN ALL OTHER CYCLES.
For model number RTW4440XQ0
Hi Richard, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the lid switch, part number PS11745957, to fix this issue. We hope this is helpful!
Water is leaking out of the machine at the bottom on the fill cycle. Thought it was drain hose, but it leaks before washer is 1/4 full of washer. Is it the pump? Do they offer a rebuild kit for the pump?
For model number RTW4440XQ0
Hi Christy, thank you for reaching out. The issue could be related to the water inlet valve, part number PS11749042. The Valve fills the tub with water during the fill cycle and a faulty or damaged valve could be the cause of the leak. We hope this solves your problem!
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pump. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
First pry off the cap of the agitator. Then using a socket remove the bolt that holds the plastic cup in place. Remove this cup by prying it loose from the two tabs that hold it in place. Once this cup is removed you can get to the broken cogs. Slip the new cogs into the underside of the cup, and slide the cup back down in the agitator housing using the slots on the side for a guide. (You may want to remove the entire agitator and assemble everything upside down, then flip it all back over to mount, so the cogs don't fall out). Tighten the bolt, snap the cap back in place on top of the agitator and your'e done. Easy repair.
On top of the agitator is a flat cap that is held in place by the friction of an o-ring, there are no fasteners. I would imagine one could get under the lip with a small screwdriver or butter knife to pop it off but I chose simply using my fingernails so as to not disfigure the cap. Under the cap you will find the head of the only bolt that holds the assembly together it is a 7/16 head and because it is in a 4" deep well your will need a 6" extension for your ratchet. Once the bolt is out the top of the agitator, the assembly with the cogs removes by hand. Set the assembly upside down on the counter, slide the black plastic ring off, pull the cogs out with your fingertips, install the new cogs put a new black ring on and set the assembly back in the agitator. Reinstall bolt. As the bolt is down in a tube, you cannot set it in place with your fingers and it will fall out of the socket. To hold the bolt in the socket during positioning you can either put a gob of Vaseline on the bolt head to hold it in the socket or form a small piece of paper over the bolt head and set it into the socket, the friction of the paper will hold the bolt into the socket. Took me less then 10 minutes, good luck