RT18DKXHW00 Roper Refrigerator - Overview

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Touch-Up Paint - White – Part Number: 72017
No Longer Available
Touch-Up Paint - White
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(23)
Part #72017
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, and freezers. This is a genuine OEM part and includes a brush applicator. Please remember to wear gloves to protect your hands when applying this paint.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer – Part Number: W10854037
$186.07
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer
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Part #W10854037
The crisper drawer is clear plastic. The drawer does not include the white trim on the front. Sold individually.
Refrigerator Door Switch – Part Number: W11384469
$43.83
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Switch
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(36)
Part #W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Rail – Part Number: WP2163835
$37.74
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Rail
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Part #WP2163835
This part goes in the center of the crisper shelf and acts as a support.
Defrost Timer – Part Number: W10822278
$45.92
In Stock
Defrost Timer
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Part #W10822278
This eight-hour defrost timer will replace most other defrost timers. This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater. The best way to make sure you get the correct timer for your refrigerator is to conduct a search for your model number. NOTE: The black lead on the defrost timer, will go to terminal number 2.
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat – Part Number: WP4387503
$51.65
In Stock
Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
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(20)
Part #WP4387503
This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost cycle and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted.
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC – Part Number: W11745278
$18.95
In Stock
BRACKET-DOOR STOP,ZINC
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Part #W11745278
This hinge bracket, also known as a door stop, is attached to the bottom of the door and is used to limit how far the door swings out to protect the refrigerator itself, and any surrounding cabinets from potential damage. If your fridge is having issues opening or staying closed, check the hinges for any damage or cracking. To replace this bracket, simply remove the door off your refrigerator, unscrew and remove this bracket from the bottom of the door, and install the new one. This hinge bracket is an OEM replacement and is compatible with several different makes and models of refrigerator.
Crisper Drawer - Clear – Part Number: W10856580
$190.40
In Stock
Crisper Drawer - Clear
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Part #W10856580
This is a replacement crisper drawer for your refrigerator. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The crisper drawer slides in and out of the refrigerator, and is used to store items. The main reason you would want to replace the crisper drawer, is if the old drawer is cracked, broken, or missing. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
Refrigerator Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap – Part Number: WP2156003
$17.29
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
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(1)
Part #WP2156003
The door shelf retainer bar end cap connects to the retainer bar on your refrigerator’s door shelf, and attaches it to the refrigerator door. If your shelf retainer bar has become disconnected, a damaged end cap could be the cause. To remove the end cap, first unhook the release tab on both ends of the retainer bar. Slide out the bar and the end caps, and slide out the defective cap. Now, simply replace the end cap and snap the bar with end caps back in place on the refrigerator door. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
Refrigerator Glass Shelf – Part Number: WP2169921
$248.36
In Stock
Refrigerator Glass Shelf
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Part #WP2169921
Glass Only. Frame not included.
Refrigerator End Cap Trim Piece – Part Number: WP2156006
$15.95
In Stock
Refrigerator End Cap Trim Piece
Part #WP2156006
Sold individually.
Refrigerator Screw – Part Number: WP489497
$17.55
In Stock
Refrigerator Screw
Part #WP489497
Sold individually.

Questions And Answers for RT18DKXHW00

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Judith - For model number RT18DKXHW00
June 14, 2023
I have a Roper refrigerator, mfg. in 1999, Serial EJ4437785, 30 inch. I would like to clean the bottom drip pan of the refrigerator and cannot get the bottom front piece off. I have no service manual for this. Can you help me?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Judith, thank you for reaching out. In order to get the grille off, there are locking tabs on each side of the grille. Grab it and pull it off, one after the other. We hope this solves your problem!
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff - For model number Rt18dkxhw00
June 28, 2026
Seems to stop running. Light is on. Everything thaws out. I mess with the cooling knob. It will start running again for a while then stop. Thermostat?
Chris Boyle Profile
Hello Jeff, thank you for getting in touch. Yes, the unit stopping completely until you mess with the cooling knob is a sign of a faulty temperature control thermostat. You will need to replace the control thermostat, part number PS11739602, to fix the issue. We hope this helps.
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Common Symptoms of the RT18DKXHW00

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The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
430 of 518 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal o pens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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Faulty thermostat
94 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Houston, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
My refrigerator is approximately seven years old (date of manufacture: 2001). I had come home twice in the last month to find that it had not been running for several hours (ice melted, milk spoiled, etc.) but it would start running again if I twisted the thermostat knob. So, I ordered a new thermostat. First I removed the 1/4" hex scr ew that held the plastic thermostat housing in place (it screws up into the top of the refrigerator compartment). Then I removed the plastic thermostat knob and slid the old thermostat out of the housing. I then disconnected the wires one-by-one from the old thermostat and connected them to the new one so I could be certain they were all connected correctly. Finally, I pulled the plastic sheathing off the old sensor wire, slid it onto the new one and popped the wire back into place. Slide the thermostat back into the housing, screw the housing back into the top of the refrigerator compartment, replace the plastic thermostat knob, and the job is done.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
137 of 257 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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