RN13A2AS (ABWESEU) LG Dryer - Instructions

I noticed the flame would start, then quit after about 15 seconds. I checked the flame detector, and found the lenze cracked. I replaced it, and it's as good as gold.

It looked like a hard job to take the drum out to get at the part. But the top was off with 3 screws, the front about 6 I think. Then the front frame, only 4 screws. I think setting the belt tentioner was the hardest thing to do.

Done in 45 minutes, both the job, then the next load of laundry.

The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.

Called Parts Select and assisted me in proper parts needed. Drier works as new.

Took out drum. Found all parts easy to locate. Found defective part and replaced with new one.

Thank you Parts Select for your assistance.

I'm not for reading instructions. So I just dove right in and took the dryer apart to get down to the motor. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and replaced the 3 parts I ordered from the online recommendation. Wish I would have ordered 2 sensors and the 2 thermostats that are near the burner. Just so replace beings I was in there. Replacing the parts was easy, found them just by looking for matches to the new parts. Reassembled the dryer, dont think I put a single screw back where I got it lol. And still haven't put the top lid back on due to difficulty. Not sure if I even needed any parts, found a nest in my outside vent completely plugging it. But after a good cleaning and replacing the parts the dryer dries the best it has since we've owned it. The dryer came with our house which we bought 3 years ago and it was 2 years old when we purchased the house, so it is now 5 years old.

Able to complete install but the lint housing does not allow the lint screen to slide down completely due to the housing lacking the appropriate cut outs/notches. The slit becomes too narrow for the lint screen so it protrudes from the sides. The delivered product does not match the image on the item description, which shows the proper cut outs/notches that should fully accommodate the lint screen.
I'm having a similar experience with this reviewer:

John S - February 14, 2022
Verified Purchase
Lint screen housing
The housing will not allow the lint screen to set completely down because the housing lacks the proper cut outs causing the lint screen to set 1-1.5 inches too high. I was able to cut out the required notches in the plastic so that the lint screen would fit. The picture shows the proper notches but the delivered product didn’t have the notches and does not match the picture.

Will return the item and keep searching for the correct lint housing.

I did not do the repair I hired the propane company to do it . It was too difficult for me.they removed top & front of dryer .removed & replaced gas orfice reinstall all parts that were removed. Install and test dryer IT cost me $91.59 for labor & $24.65 for the part & shipping.If the dryer had a side access near the gas valve it could have saved me the cost of labor. I could have done it myself.

After replacing the locker assembly (female) on the machine, The door strike(male) was hitting well below the locker. I realized that the screws holding the door hinge were loose. Tightening them brought the strike up far enough to engage the locker, although it still hits a bit low. That might have been the real problem, not the latch, so check the hinge before you order the latch parts.

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

This has taken days to get the updated parts from another major international supplier. You can't just buy the screen or the housing - you have to get an updated set. Unfortunately they were not immediately available from PartSelect.

The lint screen that this company sent was 3x too large. I called to return/exchange it. No one available - go to customer service.
I went to customer service and entered my email address and the order number (while I was looking at the original order1). The email and order number could not be found.

I am still waiting to hear from someone from the company to get a RMA and return label! Will NEVER use this company again.
Vivien Joebchen

Followed YouTube video repair process. The only problem is that the door hinge has plastic bushings attached. A couple broke and the parts listing does not show the bushings, nor does the hinge come with them. The door is a bit loose without them. Nonetheless, the repair did the job for now.

Initially replaced igniter. Didn't think it was bad though. Read other suggestions on another website. None were the correct diagnosis for my situation. And when I figured it out they did not offer correct part. The dryer thermistor temp sensor (probe sensor) is what I replaced. Found it on Parts Select. I did replace other parts also. But that's the one that ultimately was the issue.
Was not hard at all if one is even a little handy.

Pull off the top and front of the dryer and reached in and replaced the part it was easy. Had to clean all the dryer out real good with from the lint

Watched a You Tube video

I ordered the lint filter screen and when it arrived it looked exactly like the old one. It should have been nothing more than remove the old one and slide the new one in place.

Unfortunately, the new screen was about 1/2" wider than the old one and would not fit into the guide. After consulting by phone with your parts expert, we confirmed the model number and serial numbers, and eventually concluded that a design change must have been made by the manufacturer. We thought the only solution would be to also purchase the corresponding filter guide. So I ordered the guide. When it arrived, I installed it - a very difficult installation requiring putting my head and one shoulder into the dryer in order to get the screws out. (A long arm with two elbows would be nice.) After I got the old guide out, I discovered that it was exactly like the new one - 1/2" too narrow for the new filter screen. I reinstalled the old guide and returned both parts.

The dryer filter screen still has a hole in it and I am now waiting for my refund. I have no idea how to solve the problem.

The filter screen part number is 24053607, order number 18265310.

The guide part number is 24145665, order number 18348658.

Model number: DLE3170W

Serial number: 603KWMK6T539