This grease filter is sixteen and a half inches long and nine inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft ranges and cooktops.
$63.26
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This 6-inch, 1200-watt radiant surface heating element is a genuine replacement part designed for select ranges. It supplies consistent heat to the designated cooking zone on the stovetop, ensuring ev...
$217.02
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This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, is a key electrical component that controls the heat output of your stovetop burners. When you turn the control knob, the switch adjusts t...
$115.24
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This 8 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 2100 watts and 240 volts. It has five turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
$56.52
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If one of your range burners has stopped working, this 6-inch coil surface element offers a simple and effective solution. Delivering 1250 watts of heating power, it provides consistent heat for cooki...
$71.45
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We know you trust the performance of your Whirlpool appliance, and it can be frustrating when it doesnt function like it used to. Thats why the Whirlpool ELMNT-SURF radiant surface element is crucial ...
$250.36
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Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).
