This Drip Bowl, also known as a burner bowl or drip pan, is made to fit an element 8 inches in diameter and comes in chrome. The actual total diameter of this drip bowl is closer to 10 inches, but don...
This drip bowl, also known as the drip pan or burner bowl, is 6 inches in internal diameter to match the burner, but actually measures closer to 8 inches in total diameter to its outer edges. This au...
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This is a replacement drawer support for your oven. The drawer support provides stability to the drawer unit as it opens and closes. If your oven drawer is hanging or will not slide in or out efficien...
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
3 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Dock
December 21, 2019
How is the vent tube installed. Is it a drop in or does it have be be welded in.
For model number RB526H3WW
Hello Dock and thanks for writing.
It is a drop-in. vent tube # Part Number: PS247855 is in the list of compatible items for your model. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Hi Sharon. One of the switches is likely bad. Please refer to these instructions to test which one to replace: "The Element On light gets power through the wire that connects to a spade on each of the surface element switches. The wire color and spade label on the element switch can vary by model, but often the wire is purple and the spade is labeled “P”. When you turn on a burner, the surface element switch sends power through the purple wire attached to the “P” spade. Current travels through the purple wire to the Element On light so it lights up. When you turn off a burner, the surface element switch opens an internal contact and stops sending power to the Element On light so the light turns off. At least that’s what’s supposed to happen. When the Element On light stays lit even though you have all the burners turned off, one of the switches has a stuck contact that is sending power to the Element On light constantly. Let’s find that broken switch. To do this troubleshooting, you need a nut driver to remove the top back panel. You also need electrical tape to insulate the ends of wires that you disconnect from the surface element switches during testing. First pull out the range so you can get to the back of the switches. Unplug the range and remove the top back panel to reveal the switches and wires. This purple wire starts at the double-element switch on this range and then connects to each of the other switches before it ends up at the Element On light. To find out which switch failed, we’ll disconnect the wire from each of the surface element switches one at a time. With the range still unplugged, pull the purple wire off the double element switch and tape the end with electrical tape so the wire doesn’t short to metal inside the range. This is very important, if the wire shorts to metal, you can be electrocuted by touching any metal on the range when you plug it back in. Plug the range in and see if the Element On light stays lit. If the light doesn’t come on, the double-element switch is your problem. You’ll need to replace it. Watch our video “Replacing a Range Surface Element Control Switch” to learn how. If Element On light stays lit when you plug in the range, we’ll move on to testing the next switch. Remember to unplug the range again before pulling the wires from the next element switch. You don’t want to touch live wires and get shocked. Trust me, it hurts and can cause serious injury. Next, unplug the lower wire harness connector from the second switch. This range uses plastic clips to help connect the wires to the single surface element switches, so plug the right side of the clip back in while keeping the purple wire unplugged. The plastic plug keeps the purple wire from shorting to metal so you don’t have to use electrical tape to insulate the end of the wire during this part of the test. If your range doesn’t have this type of plastic plug, tape the end of the wire with electrical tape to prevent it from shorting against metal. Plug the range back in and see if the Element On indicator lights up. If the Element On light is off, you’ve found the bad switch. That’s the one you’ll need to replace. If the Element On light stays on, the second switch is okay and you’ll have to test the third switch. Leaving the first two switches disconnected, unplug the range again and disconnect the purple wire from the third surface element switch. Plug the right side of the clip back in while keeping the purple wire unplugged. Replace the third element switch if the Element On light is off when you restore power to the range. If the Element On light stays lit when you restore power, you know by process of elimination that the fourth surface element switch is the problem. Once you put in a new switch, reinstall the back panel, plug in the range and move it back in place. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Tom
May 29, 2023
Backing element gets warm but does NOT GET HOT
For model number RB526H3WW
Hello Tom, thank you for your inquiry. To fix the issue, you may need to replace the oven thermostat, part number PS1765834. It is used in ranges to monitor and control the heat. The thermostat turns the heat off and on to maintain the oven temperature that you set. We hope this sorts out your problem!
First I slid the stove out and unpluged it, then removed two screws,slid out element, disconected two wires, slid new element in to place, pluged two wires in ,put into place and installed two screws, pluged stove back in, and turned on to try. Works perfect.