This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This OEM water filter works with side-by-side and bottom freezer refrigerators. You will find this filter mounted in a vertical position in the back upper right-hand corner of the refrigerator compart...
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find th...
This part is the replacement water line for your refrigerator. It is a long plastic tube, which is 5/16 of an inch in diameter. If your refrigerator is leaking, or will not dispense water or ice, you ...
Replacement icemaker kit - electronic. This kit includes a 4 pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connector, tube and fill cup.
$275.72
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Questions And Answers for PSCS3RGXCFSS
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David
December 15, 2019
When you push button in door will not dispense water or ice, numbers and lights flash on display.
For model number PSCS3RGXCFSS
Hello David, thank you for your question. If the lights and numbers are flashing on the display and you aren't able to dispenser water or ice, the dispenser board should be replaced which is Part #: PS2340411. Good luck with your repair!
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Keith
November 27, 2019
When i go to get ice the ice turns on then off and the light flashes and the it gives ice out in spurts...what do i need to get it to work properly?????
For model number PSCS3RGXCFSS
Hello Keith,
Thank you for your question. We suggest replacing the dispenser door solenoid for your model under part PS1483583 to fix the issue. Hope this helps!
Ice flapper sticks. I think the solenoid is the problem. Is ther a video for this exact model? Sr# tt 418231 of a shop manual that details how to get to the solenoid? All the videos shadow older models with snap off facing. My panel is recessed and appears smooth without framework to remove. It seems that the whole door shell has to be removed to get to the assembly. Help please. How long does it take to get the part? Also is the control panel available mine is scratched and cracked, what is the cost. Thanks
For model number PSCS3RGXCFSS
Hello Charles, thank you for your question. For units without a trim piece around the dispenser area, try following these direction from another customer. ust below the touch pad for choosing water, ice, or crushed ice (above where the ice/water dispenses) there are three very small holes spaced about an inch a part. After unplugging the fridge, I stuck a small philips-head screw driver in each, freeing spring clips. That allowed the touch pad to come off. I then removed four screws to remove a plastic piece covering the chute, giving me access to the flap and solenoid. I just unplugged the solenoid from the circuit board on the back of the touch pad and then removed three screws to remove the old solenoid. I replaced it with the new solenoid and plugged it into the circuit board. The touch pad then snapped back into place. I hope this helps!
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Melvin
January 10, 2020
How I change the lightbulbs? Thanks
For model number PSCS3RGXCFSS
Hi Melvin. Please watch our video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yE0ZZBNISU. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
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Orlando
February 28, 2020
How do I manually initiate a defrost cycle?
For model number PSCS3RGXCFSS
Hello Orlando, Thank you for the question. This model does not have a separate timer so it can not be manual initiated. The Defrost cycle is controlled by the control board and it does not have the circular notch that Defrost Timers have to trigger the cycle manually. We hope this helps.
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After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed: 1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge. 2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time. 3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's). 4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect. 5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken. 6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best. 7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side. 8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws. It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.