If your gas oven is failing to heat or not reaching the proper temperature, the most common culprit is a malfunctioning igniter. This bake igniter is designed for use in gas ovens and ranges, where it...
This black star burner cap is a genuine OEM replacement for select gas ranges. Sized as a Size F cap, it helps protect the burner from debris and moisture while supporting even heat distribution. A da...
This potentiometer, also known as a spark ignition switch, sits behind a range or cooktop control knob and translates the rotation of the knob into electrical signals that regulate burner heat and ens...
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Jerome
December 30, 2023
Oven won't heat up ! Broiling does work, though, and so do the four heaters on top but the oven suddenly stopped working yesterday. Can you tell me what piece is broken ? Thanks. (Nb : the actual model is PRL304GH/19, if that makes a difference)
For model number PRL304GH-01
Hi Jerome, thank you for reaching out to PartSelect Canada. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest you replacing the bake igniter, part number PS8722793. Good luck with your repair!
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
The sole review for this part by Andrew was most helpful and accurate with one exception: he said that there were two nuts Which needed to be removed in order to pull off the front knob panel. There were actually two on each end for a total of four, which confused me, as I wondered if I had the right ones. Another thing that would be helpful for somebody considering doing this repair is to know that it takes a deep quarter inch socket With two 6 inch extensions to reach these nuts through holes in the interior side panels. Also, take a look at the replacement potentiometers, and you’ll see that there’s a slot that can be lined up so that they can be pulled off the side of the shaft rather than off the front of the shaft. This repair took me about six hours. I’m mechanically inclined and work methodically, but since I’ve never done this repair before it was quite time-consuming.
Remove slide racks from oven. At the back right corner of oven unscrew heat sensor probe. Access rear of range. Remove screws holding back panel. Find wire from temperature probe where it passes through back wall of over and unclip it pulling probe wire and probe out back of oven. From the inside of oven, push chopstick through hole probe wire was routed through, to find hole in back wall of oven. Once chopstick is visible from back of oven, with chopstick enlarge hole through visible insulation. This is the opening the new probe wire needs to be routed through. From inside oven push new wire, using chopstick, through this hole and reattach wire at back of oven using the plastic clip on the wire. From inside oven screw probe to back of oven wall, reattach outside panel to back of oven, turn gas back on, plug range back in, check oven operates, and push range back in place, reinstall racks. You may have to remove oven door if you have trouble reaching to the back of the oven to access the probe. YouTube videos are easy to find showing how to do that.
