If your gas oven is failing to heat or not reaching the proper temperature, the most common culprit is a malfunctioning igniter. This bake igniter is designed for use in gas ovens and ranges, where it...
This black star burner cap is a genuine OEM replacement for select gas ranges. Sized as a Size F cap, it helps protect the burner from debris and moisture while supporting even heat distribution. A da...
This potentiometer, also known as a spark ignition switch, sits behind a range or cooktop control knob and translates the rotation of the knob into electrical signals that regulate burner heat and ens...
Upgrade your oven with this sturdy stainless steel rack. It gives you a strong, even surface for baking and roasting and helps food cook evenly. Easy to slide in and out, it’s simple to clean and buil...
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Eeica
February 1, 2020
I just installed the unit and two of the six burners will not ignite.. the two far left thanks in advance for any help
For model number PRG366GH
Hello Eeica, Thank you for your inquiry. Check the gas supply tubes to those two burners to make sure they are free from debris, and connected properly. We would also recommend checking the burner valve, and the burner switch. Hope this helps.
1) Two left burners do not light up - no gas, 4 other burners have gas
2) Three burners do not ignite. Need to use lighter to use.
For model number PRG366GH
Hello Suresh, thank you for your question. According to our research, you may need to check the following parts: the left rear burner tube, part number PS8733668, the left front burner tube, part number PS8733669, the valve, part number PS8729315, and the surface burner tube, part number PS8728076. Moreover, you may need to replace the burner surface igniter, part number PS8728077. We hope this information helps!
The sole review for this part by Andrew was most helpful and accurate with one exception: he said that there were two nuts Which needed to be removed in order to pull off the front knob panel. There were actually two on each end for a total of four, which confused me, as I wondered if I had the right ones. Another thing that would be helpful for somebody considering doing this repair is to know that it takes a deep quarter inch socket With two 6 inch extensions to reach these nuts through holes in the interior side panels. Also, take a look at the replacement potentiometers, and you’ll see that there’s a slot that can be lined up so that they can be pulled off the side of the shaft rather than off the front of the shaft. This repair took me about six hours. I’m mechanically inclined and work methodically, but since I’ve never done this repair before it was quite time-consuming.
Remove slide racks from oven. At the back right corner of oven unscrew heat sensor probe. Access rear of range. Remove screws holding back panel. Find wire from temperature probe where it passes through back wall of over and unclip it pulling probe wire and probe out back of oven. From the inside of oven, push chopstick through hole probe wire was routed through, to find hole in back wall of oven. Once chopstick is visible from back of oven, with chopstick enlarge hole through visible insulation. This is the opening the new probe wire needs to be routed through. From inside oven push new wire, using chopstick, through this hole and reattach wire at back of oven using the plastic clip on the wire. From inside oven screw probe to back of oven wall, reattach outside panel to back of oven, turn gas back on, plug range back in, check oven operates, and push range back in place, reinstall racks. You may have to remove oven door if you have trouble reaching to the back of the oven to access the probe. YouTube videos are easy to find showing how to do that.