The temperature sensor, also known as an oven probe, detects the temperature within the oven cavity. This temperature sensor is 9 inches in length and is a genuine OEM part. If your oven is too hot, n...
This 40-watt appliance light bulb is a reliable replacement for use in select ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. It provides bright, consistent lighting to help you see clearly inside yo...
The 6” radiant cooking element with limiter fits under the glass cooktop and supplies heat to the cooking area. If your element is not heating, you can test the element for continuity with a multimete...
This is a replacement rack for your oven. The oven rack fits into grooves on the side of the oven wall, and acts as a shelf that you can place food items on when you want to cook them in the oven. Thi...
This oven temperature sensor is a precision component designed to measure and relay internal oven temperatures to the control board, ensuring accurate and consistent cooking performance. Commonly refe...
Restore your oven’s performance with this high-powered bake element, rated at 3500 watts and featuring a 6-pass design for uniform heat distribution. Positioned at the bottom of the oven, it plays a k...
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
