This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually.
It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible with a variety of appliance types including refrigerators, ranges,...
The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, or has little to no heat when baking, you may need to replace the temperature sensor...
If your stove’s burner isn’t heating right—maybe it’s stuck on high or won’t turn on at all—this control switch could be the fix. It’s made for 6-inch burners and lets you adjust the heat smoothly, no...
This surface element is for ranges. Surface elements supply the heat to a cooking area on top of the range. Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker for the range before installing this ...
This part is the replacement oven bulb lens cover. It is made of glass and is approximately 3 inches in diameter. The lens cover is rigid and protects the oven light bulb from being damaged. The main ...
This radiant stovetop element, or burner, is a genuine replacement part, and is 8 inches in diameter. The radiant element heats your cookware as you prepare food on the stovetop. To complete this repa...
$115.60
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Questions And Answers for PCB980SJ1SS
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Doug
January 13, 2020
When we place something cold in a pot on the left front burner of this stove and turn the control to "lo", the lf burner goes to high "maximum heat" and burns what ever is in the pot. Why? Is it a problem with the "infinite switch" for that element? Or is there a thermister in the element that is skewed when something cold is on the element. I have an electronics background and have worked on many different things, but not a GE stove.
For model number PCB980SJ1SS
Hi Doug, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your radiant element. It should be reading between 0 - 120 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. Good luck with your repair.
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Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
